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Boulder finals U18 | Guiyang 2024

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  • The Line— Skiing the Tetons Enduro Traverse

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure. Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here. You can read an extended story—replete with Adam’s history of Teton link-ups—at the AAJ website. In 1963, John Evans, Richard Long, and Allen Steck completed the Grand Traverse, a summertime traverse of ten Teton Range summits, from Nez Perce to Teewinot (the opposite direction of how this now-classic traverse is usually done today). In the 1965 AAJ, Steck wrote, “Any route or time of day is acceptable, however, only be sure to finish within 24 hours.” For the Enduro ski traverse of the Tetons that I envisioned, sub-24 hours was our sole metric, as Steck had laid it out for us. For some years, I’ve been exploring Teton link-ups on skis with various partners, culminating with a day of skiing the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountain by some of their most technical routes. Sam Hennessey, Brendan O’Neill, and I pulled off this fine adventure in March 2023. To me it seemed logical to bring all of our experiences together in a much longer traverse—to see how far we could go in under 24 hours. In the Alaska Range, I have enjoyed moving under the midnight sun for 24, 30, hell, even 64 hours—why not see how this would work back home? It gets darker in Wyoming in the spring than in Alaska, but we have headlamps. The idea of the Enduro Traverse was to enchain the Teton skyline from Buck Mountain in the south to Teewinot, crossing over Mt. Wister, South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen along the way. At 6 p.m. on April 22, with the day’s heat still in the air, Michael Gardner, Brendan O’Neill, and I started skinning up Death Canyon in wet, sloppy snow. Under an endless sunset, we climbed the east ridge of Buck Mountain (11,938’) and clicked in on top for our first descent at 9:15 p.m. (A full moon allowed us to complete all the climbs sans headlamps, but we did use the lamps for our descents.) We skied down Buck’s hyper-classic east face and used a piece of terrain called the Buckshot to drop into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon. The next climb was the South Headwall of Mt. Wister (11,490’), which flows into the upper east ridge. We reached Wister’s summit at 10:53 p.m. This was the lowest peak in our traverse, yet it packed a punch. The northeast face offered up some proper steep skiing—it felt engaging via headlamp—and deposited the three of us in the North Fork of Avalanche Canyon. Our next ascent took us up the South Teton’s Amora Vida Couloir (much more fun to descend than ascend), and here we encountered our least efficient travel of the day, with heinous breakable crust and soggy snow engulfing our entire legs. From the top of the South Teton (12,514’), the descent by the Northwest Chute was fast and uneventful. Now in Garnet Canyon’s South Fork, we began our climb up the Middle Teton’s Southwest Couloir, where efficient cramponing put us on the summit rather quickly. The descent down the east face into the Middle Teton Glacier route was harrowing on the refrozen undulating snow left by skiers who had descended in the warm days before us. But we were not there for the ski quality, rather the continuous movement. From the North Fork of Garnet Canyon, we made quick work of the Ford-Stettner route, topping out the Grand Teton (13,770’) at 6 a.m., 12 hours into our journey. The sun was beginning to rise above the horizon, and it felt great to embrace its warmth again. With a long block of daylight ahead, the three of us were confident as we descended the Ford-Stettner, with some thoughtful downclimbing in the Chevy Couloir, which is normally rappelled. (To save weight, we did not carry a rope and chose lines that would go without one.) We made our way into the Dike Snowfield an... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/the-enduro-traverse
  • Seb Bouin Opens Hardest Route in China

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    El Gran Cabrón 5.15b is the latest first ascent for the prolific French climber The post Seb Bouin Opens Hardest Route in China appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/seb-bouin-opens-hardest-route-in-china/
  • 0 Votes
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    99 Views
    GrippedG
    On his first day in office, Donald Trump signed an executive order - read what it says below The post Trump Has Renamed Alaska’s Denali Back to Mount McKinley appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/trump-has-renamed-alaskas-denali-back-to-mount-mckinley/
  • Fri Night Vid Adam Ondra in the High Tatras

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    In this week's Friday Night Video, Adam Ondra travels to the High Tatras in Slovakia to attemptCorona (8b+/c), the hardest route in the region. We also get an insight into the team behind the camera and the difficulties of filming the best climber in the world on big, remote faces. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775883
  • Volume 25 Story List Now Available

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    Story/poetry list for our upcoming Zine, due out later this fall. Big congratulations to all the writers. Due to the high volume of material we are sent for consideration only 1-2% of the pieces we are submitted are eventually published in The Climbing Zine! You can preorder/subscribe here.  Dirtbag by Sam McIlwaine Words for Aaron… https://climbingzine.com/volume-25-story-list-now-available/
  • Jorge Díaz-Rullo Climbs the World’s First 5.15c

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    His repeat of Adam Ondra's Change 5.15c comes days after Alex Megos' ascent of the route The post Jorge Díaz-Rullo Climbs the World’s First 5.15c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jorge-diaz-rullo-climbs-the-worlds-first-5-15c/
  • 0 Votes
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    .thomasL
    6A mug, but a 9A brew #climbing #coffee #bouldering
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
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    climbingC
    The 46-year-old was a beloved community leader in his local New Hampshire. https://www.climbing.com/people/new-hampshire-climber-dies-in-climbing-gym-accident/