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  • The Evolution Of Adam Ondra | Living Legends

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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4o6p2X33Npc
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    GrippedG
    President Barack Obama had changed it to Denali in 2015 The post Trump Wants to Rename Alaska’s Denali Back to Mount McKinley appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/trump-wants-to-rename-alaskas-denali-back-to-mount-mckinley/
  • Message Board Magic by Molly Malone

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    ClimbingZineC
    I started this painting over a year ago after seeing a beautiful sunrise over the North Six-Shooter. It was a quiet morning at camp as folks roused from tents and vehicles, sand lodged in their eyes and deep under their fingernails. I started hot water for coffee, let Izzy, my dog, out of the van,… https://climbingzine.com/message-board-magic-by-molly-malone/
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    GrippedG
    It's her 12th gold medal in bouldering across World Cup and World Championship competition The post Team USA’s Natalia Grossman Wins Boulder World Cup in Prague appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/team-usas-natalia-grossman-wins-boulder-world-cup-in-prague/
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2zZRX5OXm4
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    rayko@mastodon.raykoworld.comR
    Looks like there was some drama after the #climbing events in the #olympics that I wasn't aware of. I do agree route setters may have been a bit sketchy, and I did felt bad for Mori being so short, but I guess it was about style, and in the next Olympics, boulder and lead will be sepparated which is great, boulders aren't solved the same way as lead.In conclusion:"You send, or you bend. Over" xDThis won't stop me from complaining though, I'm short too lolhttps://youtu.be/RN5DhAruF3k?si=zaGayg3ekMOGXKwl
  • The Line — July 2024

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    American Alpine ClubA
    It’s prime season for climbing in the high peaks of the western United States, so we’re sharing six brand-new mountain routes from six states around the West. AAC Members: Get a Sneak Preview of the AAJ right now! AAC members can now download a PDF of the complete 2024 AAJ. Log in at your member profile and click the Publications tab to download your sneak preview. Physical copies of the 2024 AAJ will start going into the mail next month. Nathan Hadley and friends spent more than 25 days establishing and free climbing Bluebell (2,000’, 5.13-), the first free route up the North Norwegian Buttress of Mt. Index. About one-third of the bolt-protected route’s 21pitches are overhanging. Hadley believes it’s one of the steepest long free climbs in North America (“Imagine two of Yosemite’s Leaning Towers, with sections of slab before, in between, and after.”) Hadley’s AAJ report describes the arduous effort to establish the climb and also offers a touching tribute to one of his partners on the route: Michal Rynkiewicz, who died in a rappelling accident soon after this climb was completed. The East Buttress of Aiguille Extra, a 14,048-foot satellite of Mt. Whitney, was first climbed in 1978 with a bit of aid. Forty-five years later, James Holland and Cam Smith freed the 10-pitch route at 5.10+, adding a three-pitch direct start. In AAJ 2024, Smith writes, “James and I hope the free version of the East Buttress (1,230’, IV 5.10+) will encourage others to check out [Aiguille Extra], an unsung gem of the Eastern Sierra.” A rare new route up the beautiful Elephant’s Perch was completed in September by Greg Rickenbacker and Benj Wollant. Takin’ ’Er By the Tusks (625’, 5.12a R A3) combines challenging aid and stout free climbing on the southeast face of the granite formation. A bolting ban in Sawtooth National Forest ensured plenty of exciting climbing. Wollant, who grew up in the nearby town of Stanley, wrote in his AAJ report that establishing a route on the Elephant’s Perch was “a longtime dream come true.” “Given that I’d never stepped foot into Glacier Gorge [in Rocky Mountain National Park], you might say my plan to rope-solo a new line up the 1,500’ northeast face of Chiefs Head (13,577’) was ambitious,” writes Nathan Brown in AAJ 2024. But that’s what he did. Brown, a prolific new-router who earned his ground-up chops in North Carolina before moving to Colorado, spent two summers establishing Spirit Animal (10 pitches, 5.11), all alone, on the remote and steep Chiefs Head wall. Brown finished work on the route last September, but had not yet redpointed the full route in a continuous ascent. Just this month, he made the trek into Glacier Gorge yet again and rope-soloed the route completely free, with a bivouac in the middle. Tetons guide Michael Abbey had long imagined a more direct route up the north ridge of Mt. Owen, hewing closer to the ridgeline than the original North Ridge Route (Clayton-Emerson, 1951), which slants in from the left. It took a couple of attempts, but in 2023 he and Karen Kovaka completed Directissima (V 5.10) over two days in August. In his AAJ report, Abbey notes that another North Ridge Direct was climbed in 2001, but the key pitches of the new line were most likely unclimbed before last summer. Until 2023, the Bear’s Face had only one known full-length route: Ursus Horribilis, established in 1998 by Andrew McLean and the late Alex Lowe. Last summer, Chantel Astorga, Matt Cornell, and Jackson Marvell, along with photographer Austin Schmitz who was shooting images of The North Face team members, completed a line started by Cornell, Marvell, and Justin Willis three years earlier. Ménage Trout has 13 pitches and went at 5.10+ R A2+. Astorga wrote in https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/7/18/the-line-july-2024
  • Strong Climbers Are Loving This 5.13d Crack

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    GrippedG
    Butterfly Circus in Switzerland is said to be one of the best trad routes in the country The post Strong Climbers Are Loving This 5.13d Crack appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/strong-climbers-are-loving-this-5-13d-crack/