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Newsflash West Ridge of Gasherbrum 3 receives first ascent

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    GrippedG
    We touched base with Ian Welsted to hear about his time spent on the biggest mountain in the Canadian Rockies The post Ian Welsted Just Guided Mount Robson Three Times – Here’s How it Went appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/ian-welsted-just-guided-mount-robson-three-times-heres-how-it-went/
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZJ6CPjaaqA
  • New Alpine Mixed Route Above Arctic Circle

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    GrippedG
    Juho Knuuttila returns to his old stomping ground and completes another difficult winter line The post New Alpine Mixed Route Above Arctic Circle appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-alpine-mixed-route-above-arctic-circle/
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    GrippedG
    A deep drop knee on L’Arenauta leads to an audible pop, ending his projecting on the route The post Seb Bouin Tries a Stefano Ghisolfi 5.15b, Injures His Knee appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/seb-bouin-tries-a-stefano-ghisolfi-5-15b-injures-his-knee/
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    AlpineSavvyA
    You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. How would you get past it? Here’s one method. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//how-do-you-rappel-past-a-damaged-section-of-rope
  • Bat Hang (a poem) by Lex Abbruscato

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    ClimbingZineC
    open jug filled by authentic rubber and stretched leather laces of Velcro rooted in gravity toward the edge of rock then toward inverted air the body of a bat hangs weightless cemented in time where wingspan takes flight, autopilot into nocturnal sleep for seconds as blood rushes to the start of a dream and your… https://climbingzine.com/bat-hang-a-poem-by-lex-abbruscato/
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Adam Ondra Climbing His 212th Route 5.14d and Above

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-climbing-his-212th-route-5-14d-and-above/