When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look.
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https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/snapgate-or-locking-carabiners-on-anchors
Aidan Roberts has made the first repeat of Solly Kemball-Dorey's 'magnum opus', Poseidon's Wrath (f8C), at Trewethet Cliff (North), in Cornwall.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775610
James Pearson has made the first repeat of Jacopo Larcher's bold Valle dell'Orcotrad route, Shikantaza.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775256
If it wasn’t for Middendorf, your portaledges would collapse in storms and Camp 4 would be a parking lot. He was also a prolific first ascentionist, a devoted father, and a loving husband.
https://www.climbing.com/people/remembering-john-middendorf/
While it's the hardest drytool route ever, the grade of D15 requires a lot of strength and stamina
The post New Drytool Route has 145 Moves Along Roof appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/new-drytool-route-is-145-moves-along-roof/
Free at Last was established two years ago by none other than Will Bosi
The post Mat Wright Tries the Only 5.15a in Scotland appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/mat-wright-tries-the-only-5-15a-in-scotland/
