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Wildfire Burning Historic Mountain Town of Jasper

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25 Jul 2024, 15:00

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    The film recently wrapped up its winter tour, but will be back on the road in the fall The post New Epic Adirondack Backcountry Ski Film appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/new-epic-adirondack-backcountry-ski-film/
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    View these iconic movies below: The Real Thing, Rampage, Stone Love, Inertia 2, A Day in the Life, and Stone Love The post Five Climbing Films that Influenced a Generation appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/five-climbing-films-that-influenced-a-generation/
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    Short videos featuring the strong American on V16s and one V17 The post Daniel Woods Climbing Five of His Hardest appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/daniel-woods-climbing-five-of-his-hardest/
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    Well, yes. As a young, fixated climber that’s where I met my wife.Thirty years ago - this is nothing new! Climbers don’t really *do* anything else, do they?https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cj4vre2j4qqo#climbing #climbingwall
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    She sent Bombardino 5.15a in Arco, Italy on only her fourth attempt The post Laura Rogora Sends an Adam Ondra 5.15a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/laura-rogora-sends-an-adam-ondra-5-15a/
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    After two years of projecting, Patrick Vonbrül completed the burly problem The post Patrick Vonbrül Climbs a Fred Nicole V15 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/patrick-vonbrul-climbs-a-fred-nicole-v15/
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    Mark Westman has been climbing in the Alaska Range for nearly three decades and was a Denali Mountaineering Ranger for ten years. He has attempted Mt. Russell, on the southwest edge of Denali National Park, three times by three different routes over 27 years. The third time was the charm, as he and Sam Hennessey raced to the summit in a single day in late April. It was only the ninth ascent of the 11,670-foot peak, and Westman believes the line they followed may be the most reliable way to reach this elusive summit. At 9:45 a.m. on April 27, Paul Roderick dropped Sam Hennessey and me on the upper Dall Glacier, directly beneath the nearly 6,000-foot-tall east face of Mt. Russell—our objective.   We had in mind a rapid round trip. After quickly setting up a tent to stash food and bivouac gear, we departed half an hour after landing with light packs. We started up the left side of the east face, following the same line that Sam had climbed the previous spring with Courtney Kitchen and Lisa Van Sciver. On that attempt, they carried skis with the hope of descending off the summit. After 3,600 feet of snow and ice slopes, they reached the south ridge, which they found scoured down to unskiable hard ice. They retreated and skied back down to the Dall Glacier. The route Sam and I followed on the east face steepened to 50° at about mid-height, and the snow we had been booting up gave way to sustained hard névé and occasional ice—much icier conditions than what Sam and partners had found at the same spot in 2023. We continued to a flat area at 9,600 feet, near the base of the upper south ridge of the mountain. Until this point, we had climbed unroped for most of the way. The upper south ridge was the route followed by Mt. Russell’s first ascent team in 1962 (see AAJ 1963). They accessed it from the west side via an airplane landing on the Chedotlothna Glacier (which is no longer feasible because of glacial recession). This section of ridge was repeated by Dana Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson in 2017 after they pioneered a new route up the direct south face and south ridge of Russell (5,000’, AK Grade 4; see AAJ 2018). From where we intersected the ridge, there were several tricky sections of traversing across 50° ice and knife-edge ridges. We used the rope for these parts, then continued unroped for several hundred feet, easily avoiding numerous crevasses. Just beneath the summit, we reached a near-vertical wall of rime ice, surrounded by fantastically rimed gargoyle formations that spoke to the ferocious winds that typically buffet this mountain. We belayed the short bulge of rime and minutes later became only the ninth team to reach the summit, just seven hours after leaving our landing site. The peak known today as Mt. Russell appears to have been called Todzolno' Hwdighelo' (literally “river mountain”) in the Upper Kuskokwim Athabascan language. This is according to a National Park Service–sponsored study of Indigenous place names written by James Kari, professor emeritus of linguistics at the University of Alaska. Today’s Mt. Russell was named for geologist Israel Cook Russell—one of founding members of the AAC. The California 14er Mt. Russell is also named for him. There wasn’t a cloud in any direction and not a breath of wind. I had made storm-plagued attempts on Russell in two different decades, and there were many other seasons where I had partners and dates lined up but never left Talkeetna due to poor weather. It was truly gratifying to reach the top of this elusive summit. Sam and I descended to the landing site in just four hours, making for an 11-hour round-trip climb and the mountain’s first one-day ascent. Paul picked us up the following morning. While all of the terrain we followed had been climbed previously, the east face and south ridge had not been linked as a singular summit route. Having attempted the now very broken northeast ridge in 1997, and having climbed most of the Wilkinson-Drummond route in 2019, I feel... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/9/3/the-line-mark-westman-mt-russell-and-more
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    <img src="https://www.climber.co.uk/_client/assets/event-image/dom-oughton-elected-as-bmc-president-nbsp-1718723864.jpg" /><br><br><div class="copy"> In challenging times for the organisation, Dominic Oughton was elected as the new British Mountaineering Council President at its annual general meeting recently.</div><hr /><p><a href="https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dominic-oughton-elected-as-new-bmc-president/">https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dominic-oughton-elected-as-new-bmc-president/</a>