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  • Denali Rescue, 1979: The Untold Full Story

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we have climbing legends Jamie Logan, Jack Tackle, and Ken Currens on the podcast to retell the story of an accident and rescue on Denali from 1979. Jack Tackle and Ken Currens were climbing partners with a number of big mountains and first ascents under their belt, and in 1979, it was their first trip to the Alaska Range. They had decided to attempt the unclimbed southeast face of Denali (also known as Mount McKinely). This face would later become known as the Isis Face. In the middle of the climb, Ken, on lead, took a 250 ft fall when snow gave way beneath him. Once the rope came taught, he was hanging in mid air over a cliff, his femur badly broken. The rescue that followed is a story for the ages. We dive into the mechanics of the accident, what Jack Tackle had to do to get help, and how Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump—two of the most impressive alpinists of the time—were critical in helping save Ken. She and Mugs are especially known for the first ascent of the Emperor Face the year before, and though Mugs has passed, Jamie was able to fill us in on their experience of the rescue. In this episode, these climbing legends put together, in real time, the pieces of this story (that they all remember a tad bit differently)—47 years later. Learn More About Jack Tackle Learn More About Jamie Logan The First Ascent of the Emperor’s Face in the AAJ https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/3/5/denali-rescue-1979-the-untold-full-story
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    GrippedG
    The wait is over! This spring, the 4th edition of one of the most loved scrambling guidebooks makes its debut The post Scrambling, the Canadian Way: Alan Kane Redefines a Rockies Tradition (again) in His Essential New Guidebook appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/scrambling-the-canadian-way-alan-kane-redefines-a-rockies-tradition-again-in-his-essential-new-guidebook/
  • 3 ways to add friction

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZXpJHanoUo
  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    The 28-year-old Belgian topped The Swarm V13/14 on his first go The post Simon Lorenzi Is the First to Flash This Buttermilks Classic appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/simon-lorenzi-is-the-first-to-flash-this-buttermilks-classic/
  • The Singularity V15 Repeated in Squamish

    General News climbing
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    113 Views
    GrippedG
    Toshi Takeuchi sent the problem on his final attempt of the final day of his visit to the Canadian town The post The Singularity V15 Repeated in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/the-singularity-v15-repeated-in-squamish/
  • Fri Night Vid Andrea

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    What pushes us further in sport? It's a question that professional climber Nina Caprez and photographer Jeremy Bernard found themselves asking at the height of their careers, and just when they became parents. Believing that the value of sport comes through sharing it, they decided to create ANDREAa non-profit that brings climbing to the com... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=782374
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    O
    We are absolutely thrilled to announce the launch of the OAC Bolt Fund! This exciting new initiative is designed to directly support the incredible route developers who work tirelessly to... https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/2025/06/12/launching-the-bolt-fund-initiative-new-report-a-bad-bolt-form/
  • Matt Fultz Has Climbed His Ninth V16

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    This is the second ascent of the burly problem established by Nathan Philips The post Matt Fultz Has Climbed His Ninth V16 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/matt-fultz-has-climbed-his-ninth-v16/