Skip to content

It's so satisfying sending a route at the end of a session when I'm ready to go home but decide to give the project one last go.

General Climbing
2 2 156 1
  • It's so satisfying sending a route at the end of a session when I'm ready to go home but decide to give the project one last go. Today I was working a long traversing problem (v5ish) that has a fun mix of heel hooks, throws and fancy footwork while locked off on marginal slopers. Last time I was in the gym (before holiday travel) I finally linked all the sections and today I was consistently getting past the crux but just didn't have the energy for the easy-ish but dynamic move that followed. Was ready to pack it in but decided one more go to to dial in the first 2/3rds of the route wouldn't hurt... And everything clicked. Just floated through all the hard moves and hit the final dynamic move with that satisfying stick that tells you your hand is **not** coming off and then easily reached the top. Maybe resigning myself to waiting a few more days to send freed up enough mental energy to give me that little boost I needed.

  • devnullD devnull shared this topic on
  • It's so satisfying sending a route at the end of a session when I'm ready to go home but decide to give the project one last go. Today I was working a long traversing problem (v5ish) that has a fun mix of heel hooks, throws and fancy footwork while locked off on marginal slopers. Last time I was in the gym (before holiday travel) I finally linked all the sections and today I was consistently getting past the crux but just didn't have the energy for the easy-ish but dynamic move that followed. Was ready to pack it in but decided one more go to to dial in the first 2/3rds of the route wouldn't hurt... And everything clicked. Just floated through all the hard moves and hit the final dynamic move with that satisfying stick that tells you your hand is **not** coming off and then easily reached the top. Maybe resigning myself to waiting a few more days to send freed up enough mental energy to give me that little boost I needed.

    @ischris@universeodon.com those are the best problems. I dislike climbs whose grades are inflated because the holds get crappier.

Suggested topics


  • Is this a slipper?

    Videos climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    70 Views
    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yCPFezAhv8
  • Screw Valentines...

    Videos climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    121 Views
    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa-jmHp6IKI
  • Chris Sharma Establishes New 5.14d Deep Water Solo

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    128 Views
    GrippedG
    He adds Vision Quest to his long list of hard Mallorca DWS first ascents The post Chris Sharma Establishes New 5.14d Deep Water Solo appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/chris-sharma-establishes-new-5-14d-deep-water-solo/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    114 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    Josh Wharton is the most accomplished alpinist you've never heard of. But while he's been quietly crushing ambitious objectives to little or no fanfare, fatherhood, and warming weather have begun to reshape the world he knew. When Wharton and his climbing partner Vince Anderson attempt to take the 2003 Italian route to the summit of J... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=776783
  • I have started writing a new KaiOS app.

    OpenBeta kaios climbing
    1
    2 Votes
    1 Posts
    181 Views
    PerryP
    I have started writing a new KaiOS app. With the app you can search for climbing routes and then enter the routes you have made in a logbook. The data comes from https://openbeta.io, a freely available climbing route database with a very active community. A live version of the app -> https://pictick.strukturart.com #KaiOS #climbing
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    162 Views
    climber-magazineC
    The news coming out of Australia is that vast sections of climbing at the Arapiles / Dyurrite - including the world’s first F8b+, Punks in the Gym – are to be closed under a proposed ban. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/vast-climbing-areas-in-arapiles-dyurrite-facing-ban/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    123 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    Brad Gobright is pure of heart. So pure, in fact, that he may never have faced a dilemma in all his life. That’s not exactly serving him well right now, as he’s stuck in a pickle of his own making, at the top of the first pitch of Southern California’s gem climb, The Vampire. He’s… https://climbingzine.com/brad-gobright-pure-of-heart-part-1-by-lucas-roman/
  • How to rappel on marginal anchors

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    104 Views
    AlpineSavvyA
    https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-rappel-on-marginal-anchors