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  • Prescription—Knee Stuck in Crack

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Wild as it may seem, every year we publish at least one report of a climber getting their knee stuck in an offwidth crack. Sound crazy? It happened to Martin Boysen on Trango Tower and more recently Jason Kruk on Boogie Till You Puke.  On January 8, Climber 1 (female, 25) got her knee stuck in a wide crack on the Regular Route (3 pitches, 5.7) on Queen Victoria Spire in Sedona. Climber 1 was following four friends on her first outdoor climb when she attempted an “alpine knee” while pulling onto a ledge on the second pitch. An “alpine knee” is when you place that joint on top of a high hold and use it for progress, instead of a foot. Rather than helping her onto the ledge, Climber 1’s knee slipped into a four-inch-wide crack, where it wedged and became stuck. Others in her party tried pouring water over her knee in an attempt to free it but were unsuccessful.  At 5:15 p.m., the Coconino County Sheriff’s department was contacted to perform a rescue. By 8 p.m., the SAR team had arrived. It took over an hour to free the climber from the crack, and by then the climber was exhibiting signs of mild hypothermia (they had started climbing at 12:30 p.m.). The climbing party was airlifted off the spire. The stuck climber was not injured and refused treatment. The climbers in this scenario did “everything right,” according to the SAR team. They tried to free their partner, and failing that, they initiated a rescue. Many relatively easy routes have awkward sections or styles of climbing that may seem above the technical grade when first encountered outdoors. Care should be taken when making a move where a slip or fall could result in injury or entrapment. It took about four hours to free this climber, and temperatures at the crag dropped to around 30°F. Consider worst-case scenarios when preparing for a climb, as unexpected events could result in prolonged exposure to the elements. (Source: Dan Apodaca.)  If getting your knee stuck in an offwidth is so common, what do we do if it happens? In the video analysis, ANAC editor Pete Takeda provides some tips on how to prepare for this kind of worst-case scenario when rock climbing. Credits: Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and Hannah Provost, Content Director; Producer: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney @fosterdoodle_; Editor: Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Location: Cob Rock, Boulder Canyon, CO https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/12/prescriptionknee
  • Adam Shahar Tops The Process V16

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    It's the 19-year-old American's hardest boulder to date The post Adam Shahar Tops The Process V16 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-shahar-tops-the-process-v16/
  • Mari Salvesen Climbs Hard Skyhook Trad

    General News climbing
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    1 Posts
    21 Views
    GrippedG
    The accomplished gear climber finished 2024 strong The post Mari Salvesen Climbs Hard Skyhook Trad appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/mari-salvesen-climbs-hard-skyhook-trad/
  • Climbing and Riding Big and Cold Mountains

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    A new film just dropped about the recluse B.C. big mountains snowboarder Joe Lax The post Climbing and Riding Big and Cold Mountains appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/climbing-and-riding-big-and-cold-mountains/
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    GrippedG
    The annual event will take place in the Canadian Rockies this fall The post The 2024 Banff Summit of Excellence Recipients Announced appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-2024-banff-summit-of-excellence-recipients-announced/
  • Van Planet by Marina Hansen

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    Living on the road feels like traveling through space in a spaceship. You are in your car spaceship, flying in your little capsule alongside your fellow space travelers, zooming along the interstates and through infinite emptiness in a martian land.   Banner art and story by Marina Hansen, published in Volume 20, now available   … https://climbingzine.com/van-planet-by-marina-hansen/
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    UK ClimbingU
    With one day to go until the Opening Ceremony kicks off the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, we're excited to share our completed 'Top Trumps'-style Sport Climbing athlete cards showcasing the 68 climbers from 22 countries. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=773214
  • Third Ascent of a V16 for Solly Kemball Dorey

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    He recently climbed Isles of Wonder, one of the hardest boulders in the U.K. The post Third Ascent of a V16 for Solly Kemball Dorey appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/third-ascent-of-a-v16-for-solly-kemball-dorey/