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Fri Night Vid The North Face presents "Night Moves"

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5 Jul 2024, 17:00

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    Wild as it may seem, every year we publish at least one report of a climber getting their knee stuck in an offwidth crack. Sound crazy? It happened to Martin Boysen on Trango Tower and more recently Jason Kruk on Boogie Till You Puke.  On January 8, Climber 1 (female, 25) got her knee stuck in a wide crack on the Regular Route (3 pitches, 5.7) on Queen Victoria Spire in Sedona. Climber 1 was following four friends on her first outdoor climb when she attempted an “alpine knee” while pulling onto a ledge on the second pitch. An “alpine knee” is when you place that joint on top of a high hold and use it for progress, instead of a foot. Rather than helping her onto the ledge, Climber 1’s knee slipped into a four-inch-wide crack, where it wedged and became stuck. Others in her party tried pouring water over her knee in an attempt to free it but were unsuccessful.  At 5:15 p.m., the Coconino County Sheriff’s department was contacted to perform a rescue. By 8 p.m., the SAR team had arrived. It took over an hour to free the climber from the crack, and by then the climber was exhibiting signs of mild hypothermia (they had started climbing at 12:30 p.m.). The climbing party was airlifted off the spire. The stuck climber was not injured and refused treatment. The climbers in this scenario did “everything right,” according to the SAR team. They tried to free their partner, and failing that, they initiated a rescue. Many relatively easy routes have awkward sections or styles of climbing that may seem above the technical grade when first encountered outdoors. Care should be taken when making a move where a slip or fall could result in injury or entrapment. It took about four hours to free this climber, and temperatures at the crag dropped to around 30°F. Consider worst-case scenarios when preparing for a climb, as unexpected events could result in prolonged exposure to the elements. (Source: Dan Apodaca.)  If getting your knee stuck in an offwidth is so common, what do we do if it happens? In the video analysis, ANAC editor Pete Takeda provides some tips on how to prepare for this kind of worst-case scenario when rock climbing. Credits: Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and Hannah Provost, Content Director; Producer: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney @fosterdoodle_; Editor: Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Location: Cob Rock, Boulder Canyon, CO https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/12/prescriptionknee
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    After having had a long pause because my knee hurt so badly, I was back on the wall yesterday. I struggled a bit because I didn´t know how much the knee could take, and which kinds of movements were problematic, so I took it slow, attempting simpler routes with clearer beta, and also no routes where I´d risk a less-controlled fall from higher-up.Despite this, it was a great long session with a good friend, and has been TREMENDOUS fun.#boulder #bouldering #climbing #STEIL
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    Got a good #climbing workout in before all the children showed up. 5.75.75.85.95.10c5.10c5.10a5.9I don’t have anything AGAINST children, per se. But they do tend to clog up the works at the climbing gym. Once enough of them show up, it’s just time to go unless you want to wait a while for a route to open up.
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    First send vid of the year, inspired by the upcoming cave reset. Actually pretty doable if you're only mildly wasted and not completely boxed before you try it... There's probably a lesson in there, but damned if I can spot it #Climbing #Bouldering #IndoorBouldering #ClimbingIsMyPassion #WeaAeSpiderClimbers
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    After suffering an injury while attempting the route earlier this year, she achieved her goal of redpointing the steep Greenspit The post Caroline Ciavaldini Climbs Famous 5.14 Trad appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/caroline-ciavaldini-climbs-famous-5-14-trad/
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    Olympian Jessica Pilz earned gold, reaching the highest on the route before the clock hit zero The post Multiple Climbers Time Out at Women’s Lead World Cup appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/multiple-climbers-time-out-at-womens-lead-world-cup/
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    this looks at least 50% safe!#climbing #pleasedontdothis https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd4T0uwZPgs
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    https://gripped.com/profiles/new-route-on-himalayan-mountain-cho-oyu/