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Peru Temporarily Bans Climbing on Peaks in the Cordillera Blanca

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    Lisa Lorenzin (she/her)L
    #makeShitMonday, #climbing edition...@mbroome and I haven't been climbing as much this year, partly due to schedules, partly my shoulder recovery. But we got out to Pilot Mountain last Sunday with a bunch of friends, and that reminded me that I've been meaning to replace my various tied cords - prusiks and foot loop for emergency rope ascent, spare footloop that doubles as my chalkbag belt, and autoblock for rappel backup - since they're all well over a decade old by now. They all *look* fine, but cord is cheap and nylon degrades over time, so...He picked up some cord for us back in October, so we dug out the hot knife, set up a fan in the garage, and got to work. I had to go in for a respirator mask almost immediately - something about burning plastic gives me an instant headache - but we got them all cut to length and re-tied pretty quickly. Not quite the same diameters as the original cord, but I gave the autoblock a test drive on Thursday and it worked just fine! @cannibal #rockclimbing #DIY
  • How strong is it? OVERVIEW

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    We've all wondered - how strong is it? The Alpinesavvy web gnomes scoured the web to find some break testing for common (and not so common) gear, knots and rigging. Start here for an overview, and then head over to the more detailed articles. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-strong-is-it-overview
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpq4H0owNrM
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Climbing is a powerful force that connects us. Even when climbing takes a backseat in our lives, we are still connected to the people we have partnered with, the places we have climbed, and the impact we have had. Today, we celebrate the 100th birthday of one of our members, Bill Atkinson. Bill started climbing in the Shawangunks in the late 50's and joined the American Alpine Club in 1978. He was the New England Section Chair and was awarded the Angelo Heilprin Citation Award in 2006 for exemplary service to the Club. He is one of our oldest members and has been a member of the American Alpine Club for 47 years. Happiest centennial to you, Bill! Bill, your presence in our climbing world has been productive and prolific—and your life has been the same! Your postings have always been inspiring. Thanks for doing all of those. Some segments should be required before being granted membership in the AAC! We never climbed together – except at the Annual AAC New England Section and some Annual Dinners. That is to say, climbing up to the bar. I'm fifteen years younger, so you were out there ahead of me. But I have you beat on one score! I climbed Mt. Sir Donald via the same route you took, but back in 1962. I was also in the Bugaboos that summer. You'll be getting a lot of these postings, so I'll keep this short. Thanks again for all you've done for our world. Happy Century! Hang around for another 15 so you can help me celebrate mine. –Jed Williamson Happy Birthday, Bill, You are one very special person, a thoughtful, helpful climber with such an important history of climbing in New England. I respect you and your contributions to the AAC and climbing. Hats off to you, young man. I salute you for your many contributions. Thank you, and special wishes every day. Happy Birthday, Bruce Franks Rick Merrit celebrates Bill's Birthday by remembering the times they connected through climbing… Bill was a great section leader as I became more involved in the AAC. He worked hard to recruit and recognize new members through our section's formal dinners. I remember climbing with him on White Horse Ledge in North Conway when he was in his 80s. I also remember hiking with Bill and his friend Dee Molinar when the ABD was at Smith Rock. Warm regards to Bill, Rick Merritt I mainly know Bill through the AAC, specifically the New England chapter, which Bill energetically chaired for many years. We all looked forward to the wonderful black tie annual dinners held in the old Tufts mansion in Weston, MA, that he so carefully organized. I always enjoyed listening to Bill's extraordinary life experiences, like when he served as a radar navigator in a B52 in the Pacific during WWII, or marveling at his many fascinating inventions and creations, like the beautiful chess boards he crafted and, of course, his amazing climbing career. Bill remained extremely active as a climber long after most of his peers retired, and I remember he climbed the Black Dike when he was 80, I think! That may have been the oldest ascent ever! I've always appreciated Bill's kind, soft-spoken character and the interest he always showed in others. Bill is a true Renaissance man, and I feel fortunate to know him. Happy 100th birthday, Bill! What a milestone! –Mark Richey https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/1/13/celebrating-aac-member-bill-atkinsons-100th-birthday
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    climbingC
    We caught up with Harrington about her recent ascent of The Nexus, aka the Niels Tietze Memorial Route. https://www.climbing.com/people/emily-harrington-interview-yosemite-multi-pitch-return/
  • CLIMB: Undercover Crusher Connie Shang

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    On this episode of the Undercover Crusher series, we have Connie Shang on the podcast to talk about her recent send of Spyfiction, a 5.14c in Mt. Charleston, Nevada. We discuss her projecting process, how she’s leveled up over the years, how she got so strong without training, what counts as a crusher in today’s climbing world and especially for women’s climbing, and plateaus on the moonboard. She also talks about her unique perspective on climbing-work balance, that perhaps more of us should consider utilizing! Love to hear about hard climbing, but want to hear from someone who’s a little more relatable than the pros? The Undercover Crushers series is here for your inspiration! Dive in! Learn More about Connie Shang Other Undercover Crusher Episodes https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/10/18/climb-undercover-crusher-connie-shang
  • Sean Bailey Opening The Doors of Perception V15

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    New send footage was just released of the striking Little Cottonwood Canyon bloc The post Sean Bailey Opening The Doors of Perception V15 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/sean-bailey-opening-the-doors-of-perception-v15/
  • Controversial Squamish Boulder Problem Renamed

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    What was once The Megg V16 is now Fool Me Once V14 The post Controversial Squamish Boulder Problem Renamed appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/controversial-v16-squamish-boulder-problem-has-been-renamed/