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2025 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature Shortlist Announced

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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2isR9c3uYxY
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asadJZdHuQM
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    Access FundA
    The final Bears Ears Management Plan took effect in January, 2025. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/bears-ears-national-monument-management-plan
  • Alex Honnold Frees 23 Pitches to 5.13b in a Day

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    GrippedG
    With partner Scott Bennett supporting, he sent two difficult Rainbow Wall routes in Red Rocks The post Alex Honnold Frees 23 Pitches to 5.13b in a Day appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-frees-23-pitches-to-5-13b-in-a-day/
  • Min Hyunbin is Projecting Excalibur 5.15c

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    GrippedG
    Min Hyunbin climbed a new 5.15b in 2020 with Soul Rock Dance in Korea The post Min Hyunbin is Projecting Excalibur 5.15c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/min-hyunbin-is-projecting-excalibur-5-15c/
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Crime of the Century is a Classic 5.11c Crack

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    GrippedG
    First climbed in the 1980s, it's become one of the most-climb pitches at the grade in Squamish The post Crime of the Century is a Classic 5.11c Crack appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/crime-of-the-century-is-a-classic-5-11c-crack/
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    Jonathan PulferJ
    Just back from sport #climbing at Horseshoe Quarry in the #peakdistrict. Weather was really good with just a couple of short rain showers yesterday. The rock in the quarry was in pretty good condition. I lead a route and did a multi pitch on a 32m route in the slab section. It has been pretty special climbing in warm sunshine in the UK.