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I top roped with the Petzl 8003 full body harness today and it worked great!

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  • 1 Votes
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    UK ClimbingU
    'Every pitch was practically choreographed. We climbed about fifty pitches each, and we knew exactly where each cam, nut, and existential crisis would go' - Kate Kelleghan and Laura Pineau tell us all about completing the Yosemite Triple Crown https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=782550
  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • New Films from The North Face and Mellow

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Watch Zach Galla make the second ascent of The Smile V15 The post New Films from The North Face and Mellow appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-films-from-the-north-face-and-mellow/
  • Seb Berthe makes fourth ascent of The Dawn Wall

    General News climbing
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    1 Votes
    1 Posts
    97 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    As I write these lines, five days after returning to the Yosemite Valley, the soreness, the pain in my hands and feet are still very much present. I must say that for the past five days, I have been savoring these pains, which bear witness to the great battle fought on the wall for two weeks. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=778591
  • Barry Blanchard Receives the Order of Canada

    General News climbing
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    1 Posts
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    GrippedG
    The legendary Canadian alpinist was one of 88 Canadians appointed in 2024 The post Barry Blanchard Receives the Order of Canada appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/barry-blanchard-receives-the-order-of-canada/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    101 Views
    climbingC
    Our new integrated social platform offers personalized content, community engagement, and seamless activity tracking—all in one place. https://www.climbing.com/news/climbing-launches-social-media-outdoors/
  • A Letter To The Zine by Tavish Hansen

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    Dearest Luke, I have been meaning to write to you for some time, but I have Zine 23 fresh on my mind and some spare time, so here it goes. I don’t even know where to begin with this. My name is Tavish, and I’m a twenty-three-year-old climber from Seattle. I managed to end up… https://climbingzine.com/a-letter-to-the-zine-by-tavish-hansen/
  • How to Climb With hEDS

    Gear weighmyrack climbing
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    Weigh My RackW
    https://blog.weighmyrack.com/how-to-climb-with-heds/