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Lee Sungsu sends Burden of Dreams (Font 9A) – twice

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  • The Belay: How an Ice Axe Saved Lives on K2 in 1953

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    During a stormbound retreat, a single ice axe prevented catastrophe for an entire climbing team The post The Belay: How an Ice Axe Saved Lives on K2 in 1953 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-belay-how-an-ice-axe-saved-lives-on-k2-in-1953/
  • A Tribute to Chuck Fleischman

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    We are sad to share that beloved AAC community member Charles (Chuck) Fleischman passed away in November of 2025. Chuck was a devoted member of the AAC board of directors from 2013 to 2019, and was truly a person who lived out loud.  Chuck was a Harvard graduate who cofounded Digene Corporation, a molecular diagnostics company. Chuck’s work with Digene, as President, CFO, and director, resulted in the first FDA-approved test to detect high-risk HPV before it caused cervical cancer.  When he semi-retired, he threw himself into supporting other meaningful work, including his board term at the AAC. With Jackson Hole as their home, Chuck and his wife Lisa wanted to make a difference in their community. So their first step, beyond membership, was giving back to the local AAC community by supporting the introduction of solar panels on Cabin 2 at the AAC’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch.   As an AAC board member, Chuck was the kind to always be outspoken and always push for greatness. He was very mission driven, always pursued excellence, and held the AAC to those same standards. Phil Powers, past AAC Executive Director, remembers his tough questions, but offered always with an upbeat demeanor, as well as a gregarious laugh.   Chuck’s commitment to the AAC was grounded in his love of the mountains and wilderness. He would ski as many days as the weather gods would allow, including more than 80 days each season, even as he was fighting off cancer. He regularly went on big ski adventures with partners like Jimmy Chin and Kit DeLauriers. Chuck was also a river rat and a committed climber, having summited El Cap, gone on expedition to K2, and floated the Grand Canyon many times.  Chuck lived larger than life, and his impact on the AAC will be felt for years to come. Our thoughts are with Chuck’s family as they process his passing.  “Chuck has been a career mentor but also a climbing and adventure mentor for me. He taught me not only about how to be a professional, and how to take my experience with being on the board of the Bay Area Climbers Coalition and build it into my role as an AAC board member, but he also taught me how to look for big objectives in the mountains. Being on the AAC BOD was probably the biggest summit I could have tried to climb. But he also inspired me to pursue Shasta, Whitney, and other big objectives. It was all directly a benefit of his mentorship.” —Jen Bruursema, former AAC board member “If I was going on a hike with Chuck, I knew it was going to be A) a great day, and B) there were going to be some hard questions to tackle along the way. I knew it meant he really just cared about the Club. He wasn’t going to let a day go by without pushing us forward.” —Phil Powers, former Executive Director of the American Alpine Club https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/12/10/a-tribute-to-chuck-fleischman
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    GrippedG
    The V17 climber sent La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood after a nearly successful flash attempt The post Heartbreakingly Close V15 Flash Attempt for Nicolai Užnik appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/heartbreakingly-close-v15-flash-attempt-for-nicolai-uznik/
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    GrippedG
    PlanetMountain has paused operations today as thousands of Italian workers go on strike The post Mountain media in Italy pauses operations “in solidarity with the people of Gaza” appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/mountain-media-in-italy-pauses-operations-in-solidarity-with-the-people-of-gaza/
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    ClimbingZineC
    The Factory Bouldering Gym in Orange, California, was by no means small, but it felt small that day. In addition to us thirty-one routesetters, there were about thirty or so people that were siphoning in for their late-afternoon sessions. The judges had just passed out our results and were preparing to announce the winners and… https://climbingzine.com/show-up-as-you-are-the-rise-of-a-routesetter-by-devin-dabney/
  • Oriane Bertone 🇫🇷 and her brand new tattoo 😳

    Videos climbing ifsc
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-ySyQQ571c
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    GrippedG
    The pitch that avoids Changing Corners was established before the first free ascent by Lynn Hill. It's just been waiting for a free ascent The post The Schnoz! Climbers Free Variation to The Nose in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/the-schnoz-climbers-free-variation-to-the-nose-in-yosemite/
  • Dean Potter’s Crazy Yosemite V10 Highball

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    King Air is one of America's most iconic tall boulders, watch the first ascent below The post Dean Potter’s Crazy Yosemite V10 Highball appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/dean-potters-crazy-yosemite-v10-highball/