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Canadian Highliner Dies in Fall Near Squamish

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  • Allison Vest Climbs V14/15 and V14 in Two Days

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    GrippedG
    "Two of the most insane back-to-back days of my career," said Vest after sending The Expanse in Joe's Valley and The Mantra in Little Cottonwood Canyon The post Allison Vest Climbs V14/15 and V14 in Two Days appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/allison-vest-climbs-v14-15-and-v14-in-two-days/
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    The OAC Annual General Meeting will be held Wednesday, November 5th, at 7PM! We will once again be holding our AGM virtually. This is a great opportunity to ask questions... https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/2025/10/05/agm-save-the-date-call-for-board-member-candidates/
  • Guidebook XIV—Member Spotlight

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Spacewalking outside the Hubble Space Telescope, John Grunsfeld wasn’t that much closer to the stars than when he was back on the surface of Earth, but it certainly felt that way. The sensation of spacewalking, of constantly being in freefall, but orbiting Earth fast enough that it felt like weightlessness, was more of a thrill than terrifying. Looking out to the vaster universe, seeing the moon in its proximity, the giant body of the sun, stole his breath away. Grunsfeld was experiencing a sense of exploration that very few humans get to. It was deeply moving, a sensation he also got in the high glaciated ranges when he’d look around and be surrounded by crevasses and granite walls of rock and ice. Throughout his life, he couldn’t help but seek out the most inhospitable places on the planet, and even beyond. You might think that there is nothing similar between climbing and spacewalking. But when you ask John Grunsfeld, former astronaut and NASA Chief Scientist—and an AAC member since 1996—about the similarities, the connections are potent. The focus required of spacewalking and climbing is very much the same, Grunsfeld says. Just like you can’t perform at your best on the moves of a climb high above the ground without intense focus on the next move and the currents of balance in your body, so, too, suited up in the 300-pound spacesuit, with 4.3 pounds per square inch of oxygen, and 11 layers of protective cloth insulation, you still have to be careful not to bump the space shuttle, station, or telescope as you go about the work of repairing and updating such technology—the job of the mission in the first place. Outside the astronaut’s suit is a vacuum, and Grunsfeld is not shy about the stakes. “Humans survive seconds when vacuum-exposed,” he says. With such high risks, it’s a shame that the AAC rescue benefit doesn’t work in space. Not only is spacewalking, like climbing, inherently dangerous, it also requires intense focus, and it can be a lot like redpointing. Grunsfeld reflects that “it’s very highly scripted. Every task that you’re going to do is laid out long before we go to space. We practice extensively.” In Grunsfeld’s three missions to the Hubble Space Telescope, his spacewalks were a race against the clock—the battery life and limited oxygen that the suit supplied versus the many highly technical tasks he had to perform to update the Hubble instruments and repair various electronic systems. It’s about flow, focus, and execution—skills and a sequence of moves that he had practiced again and again on Earth before coming to space. Similarly, tether management is critical. Body positioning, and not getting tangled in the tether, is important in order to not break something—say, kick a radiator and cause a leak that destroys Hubble and his fellow astronauts inside. But to Grunsfeld, the risk is worth it. The Hubble Space Telescope is “the world’s most significant scientific instrument and worth billions of dollars. Thousands of people are counting on that work.” Indeed, perhaps a little more is at stake than a send or a summit. Growing up in Chicago, Grunsfeld’s mind first alighted on the world of science and adventure through the National Geographic magazines he devoured, and a school project that had an outsized effect. Grunsfeld’s peers were assigned to write a brief biography of people like George Washington and Babe Ruth. Rather than these more familiar figures, Grunsfeld was assigned to research the life of Enrico Fermi—a nuclear physicist who was instrumental in the Manhattan Project, the creator of the world’s first artificial nuclear reactor, and a lifelong mountaineer. Suddenly, science and the alpine seemed deeply intertwined. Grunsfeld started climbing as a teenager, top-roping in Devil’s Lake, back when the cutting edge of gear innovation meant climbing by wrapping the rope around your waist and tying it with a bowline. Attending a NOLS trip to the Wind River Range and further expanding on his rope and survivor skills truly cemented his love of climbing in wild spaces. Throughout the years, climbing was a steady beat in his life, a resource for joy. He would climb in Lumpy Ridge, the Sierra, the White Mountains of New Hampshire, Tahquitz, Peru, Bolivia, and many other places with his wife, Carol, his daughter, and close friends like Tom Loeff, another AAC member. If climbing was a steady beat, his fascination with space and astrophysics would be a starburst. At first, his application to become a NASA astronaut was denied, but in 1992, Grunsfeld joined the NASA Astronaut Corps. It would shape the rest of his life’s work. Between 1... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/guidebook-xivmember-spotlight
  • More Big Sends for Laura Rogora

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    GrippedG
    A 5.14d redpoint and 5.14b onsight are highlights of her recent short trip to Oliana The post More Big Sends for Laura Rogora appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/more-big-sends-for-laura-rogora/
  • You Should Definitely Touch This Painting

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    climbingC
    A Melbourne-based climber has a new vision for gym holds: art that climbs like rock. https://www.climbing.com/people/making-indoor-climbing-holds-into-art/
  • Bail without Carabiner

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9QcxKYya8g
  • CONNECT: Undercover Crusher Nathan Hadley

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    American Alpine ClubA
    On this edition of the Undercover Crusher series, we have Rab athlete Nathan Hadley on the pod. We talk about what counts as “undercover,” and the reality of straddling the world of full-time work while being “pro.” We discuss the pressure to be obsessed with Yosemite, and maybe figuring out that performing in Yosemite is not the only place to make a name for yourself…as well as bolting and development ethics in Washington, sending the Canadian Trilogy, and the downsides and upsides of being a route setter.  Jump into this episode to hear all this and more from crusher Nathan Hadley! Learn More About Nathan Hadley Other Undercover Crusher Episodes https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/9/30/connect-undercover-crusher-nathan-hadley
  • Kai Lightner Climbs 5.14d in Colorado

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    Since moving to Colorado, Rifle has become one of his local crags The post Kai Lightner Climbs 5.14d in Colorado appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/kai-lightner-climbs-5-14d-in-colorado/