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Em Pellerin and Julia Niles Climb Cochamó

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  • 0 Votes
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    UK ClimbingU
    Once you decide to go 'pegless' you are kind of committed, you can't exactly grab a peg if you get tired, and with just cams on your rack it's gonna be a fiddly effort if you fluff a placement to try and clip a peg instead! https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=782107
  • A Tribute to Virginia Boucher

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    It is with great appreciation that the American Alpine Club honors and celebrates the life of Virginia (Ginnie) Boucher—an unsung hero in the Club’s history.  Virginia Boucher was the chair for the AAC Library Committee for a decade, and a driving force in introducing best practices to the AAC Library from the 1990s onward—including online access to the AAC’s library catalog, expansion of library staff, and implementing interlibrary loans in this highly niche space of mountaineering libraries and literature. Boucher was also instrumental in the physical move of the AAC Library from the AAC’s original Clubhouse in New York to its current location among the mountains of Golden, Colorado.  Boucher received the 2005 Angelo Heilprin Citation from the AAC for exemplary service to the Club, thanks to her transformational leadership at the AAC Library. Not only did her leadership bring the full force of library science to bear on this now world-renowned library and archive, but she also helped steward the acquisition of many pieces of the John M. Boyle Himalayan Collection and the Nicholas B. Clinch Collection, two keystone collections in the AAC’s current holdings.  In the notes announcing her award of the Heilprin Citation, the Award Committee shares some tidbits that suggest that Boucher wasn’t just the bookish type—she also had a flair for adventure. The committee notes that she and her husband, Stanley Boucher–a lifetime member of the AAC—were known for their unplanned night descents, and had a hilarious story about fighting off porcupines in the San Juans. She climbed the Grand Teton, Rainier, and many of Colorado’s mountains, and in her early years started off her climbing at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs.  Boucher’s extensive impact as a volunteer for the AAC’s Library Committee was fueled by her love for the mountains and her calling as a librarian. But by the time she was serving on the committee, she had left climbing behind her. In her autobiography, she writes of this part of herself: “I know a number of those who have ‘summited’ Mount Everest…those who are addicted to boulders, and a few such as myself who climb [only] in our memories.” But even so, climbing was a part of her history and identity, and after shepherding the AAC Library into the world-class institution it is today, she recalls how her volunteer involvement with the AAC Library brought her full-circle in her career: “I have drawn upon my special library experience…to give the best advice I can to this emerging and unique library… And finally, I have returned to my beginnings; I shelve books once again.” https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/a-tribute-to-virginia-boucher
  • Lead finals | Bali 2025

    Videos climbing ifsc
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqu0zbEoriY
  • Fontainebleau 4B receives consensus upgrade to 8A+

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    The boulder is now the hardest at Roche aux Sabots. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=780053
  • Double Spoc; top rope solo

    General Climbing edelrid climbing solo ropesolo trs
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    devnullD
    Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask. There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness. By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion. The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS. Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup: [image: 1733628906847-1000006397.jpg] Any potential problems I should be considering?
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pv2OkMopXRU
  • How To Maximize Your Pull-Up Trainings

    General News climbing
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    climbingC
    Pull-ups are the most commonly practiced training exercise for climbing, yet how much do we really know about them? https://www.climbing.com/skills/pull-ups-for-beginners/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    264 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    Four fingers grip an empty cup. “Go back to your country, terrorist!” a stranger spits, tossing his beer on me as his eyes survey my Middle Eastern features in disgust.  Budweiser drips down my cheeks and onto my American flag T-shirt as cars race the Indy 500 track in circles on a hot summer day… https://climbingzine.com/holding-on-by-letting-go-by-shara-zaia-volume-24-excerpt/