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Honnold Climbs with Famous Parkour Group

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    GrippedG
    The must-have book about ice and mixed climbing recently hit the shelves The post Will Gadd’s New Ice and Mixed Climbing Book Reviewed appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/will-gadds-new-ice-and-mixed-climbing-book-reviewed/
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    American Alpine ClubA
    I move, therefore I am. I reminded myself of this throughout the journey to and from Arviqtujuq Kangiqtua, formerly known as Eglinton Fjord. Throughout our five-week, multi-sport, primarily human-powered expedition to Baffin Island, in the Canadian Arctic, Kelly Fields, Shira Biner, Natalie Afonina, and I continued to move. We skied over 100 miles across the sea ice in order to get there, and we slogged for another 100 miles over moraine fields, loose talus, sinking meadows, a frozen lake, and a partially frozen river to get out. Movement was our rule, our rhythm. And as a team of three women and a non-binary person, we were motivated to define this movement on our own terms. Kelly, Shira, Natalie, and I met for the first time in person at the Ottawa Airport en route to the Arctic. Only a few of us had tied in together before this trip. Prior to our real-life introduction, we spent months exchanging messages, photos, screenshots, videos, and group calls on WhatsApp. Now, past the logistical chaos of prep for this expedition, we still had a lot of learning to do about each other. I’m lucky in that I know an abundance of female, non-binary, and queer people who are incredible climbing partners. I prefer to rope up with them because of my ongoing struggles with self-confidence and self-trust that I learned in the shadow of my male climbing partners. Here was an opportunity to move toward my goals and the style of climbing that most inspires me, alongside a group of people who uplift one another. When we received our first grant—the McNeill-Nott Award from the American Alpine Club—I started to feel that other people believed in us, which gave me more belief in myself. Representation is important, and the organizations that supported us believed that too. It was coming together all too perfectly. I stared at the vast ice and seascape before me: Circles of white interrupted the piercing blue water that settled up to a foot deep in some places. We were leaving the bay in the small Inuit community of Clyde River. The gray sky let go of gentle snowflakes that melted on my sunglasses, making my surroundings appear as if I were looking out a window on a rainy day. “So...how thick is this ice?” I asked, my voice wavering. The last time I had put skis on was a number of years ago. On snow, on solid ground. However, I was soon submerged within and captivated by the ice’s symphony as we glided, heaved, soared over, walked, and trudged—depending on the conditions of the sea ice—over a hundred miles on a seascape that was constantly changing. Moving through that environment was dictated by the wind, temperature, snow, and our bodies’ needs. One moment, we would be trapped in a cloud, the snow absorbing the sound around us and sticking to our ski skins so thick that we had to take them off. Moments later, after turning a corner, the winds had blown the clouds and snow off the surface, and we found ourselves flying over the best ice conditions we had yet experienced. That landscape spoke to me, telling me that it, too, exists in states of movement and change. I often look to the natural world to find my own sense of belonging. Being a non-binary person often means that I don’t always find a type of belonging that is representative. I struggle in groups of men. In groups of women, I push back on the definitions and create an exclusionary space for myself. Asking for a non-binary category creates the exact thing I don’t want to exist within: a category. One day, I hope I can exist in a way that is outside the confines of man or woman—that I can exist as myself without needing to choose between explaining and educating, or quietly disrespecting myself. The thing about gender, being non-binary specifically, is that it’s simultaneously the most painful and most beautiful experience one can have. There is a deep gratitude in being the truest form of yourself; there is a wholeness in accepting one’s authenticity. It can also often be painful to a core level. My relationship with gender is like the Arctic wind: always present, sometimes gentle and caressing, other times a chaos that threatens to knock me down. I felt the spirits skiing into Arviqtujuq Kangiqtua. Finally, among those great walls, exhausted, hungry, sore, and cold, we debated where to set up our base camp and had a hard time getting anywhere productive with it. I remember feeling confused about how I could be in the greatest place I’ve ever stood, a place that made my soul feel so full, yet in conditions that m... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/11/4/guidebook-xvigrant-spotlight
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    GrippedG
    The ascent comes on the back of his season once again trying to send his mega-project, Café Colombia The post Jorge Díaz-Rullo Achieves His Most Difficult Flash Ever appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jorge-diaz-rullo-achieves-his-most-difficult-flash-ever/
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    UK ClimbingU
    The route, his third at 9a+ in 2024 alone, was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2016, but is best known for its second ascent, when Adam Ondra became the first person ever to flash a route at 9a+. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777086
  • Controversial Squamish Boulder Problem Renamed

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    What was once The Megg V16 is now Fool Me Once V14 The post Controversial Squamish Boulder Problem Renamed appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/controversial-v16-squamish-boulder-problem-has-been-renamed/
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fS-OnQxG2lI
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    climbingC
    After months of work (and more than a 100,000 vertical feet of hiking) Chase Leary and Andy Puhvel finally freed ‘Keel Haul’ (5.13c; 2,000ft). The crux is pitch is above 14,000 feet. https://www.climbing.com/places/keel-haul-high-sierra-14000-feet/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/access-fund-announces-spring-2024-climbing-conservation-grants