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Unparallel Up Float - Can it Edge?

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  • Tales from Red Rock's Risk Mistress: Joanne Urioste

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Joanne Urioste is a powerhouse in Red Rocks climbing history, and we had her on the podcast to share stories from her recently published memoir, “Collages of Rock & Desire.” Her book is a detailed catalogue of the climbing legacy she shares with her husband George Urioste, including the creation of iconic multi pitch climbs like Epinephrine, Levitation 29, A Dream of Wild Turkeys, and many others. The book is also a detailed account of gear innovations and changing climbing ethics through the ‘70s and 80’s—from swami belts and belay plates, to early adoption of nuts and frontpointing on ice, and adding a run-out bolt here and there to connect discontinuous cracks and make many climbs possible on Red Rocks soaring faces. In the interview, we dive into all of this, plus Joanne and George’s wild love story, managing fear on lead, and climbing as a metaphor for life. You can find a copy of Joanne Urioste's book on Amazon. Buy Joanne Urioste’s Book Watch the Legacy Series Film about George and Joanne Urioste https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/1/22/tales-from-red-rocks-risk-mistress-joanne-urioste
  • The Belay: How an Ice Axe Saved Lives on K2 in 1953

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    During a stormbound retreat, a single ice axe prevented catastrophe for an entire climbing team The post The Belay: How an Ice Axe Saved Lives on K2 in 1953 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-belay-how-an-ice-axe-saved-lives-on-k2-in-1953/
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RD88UQJdncg
  • Smart Crag Picks for Summer Sends

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    When the temperatures soar and you still want to climb, consider these tips when choosing your destination for the day The post Smart Crag Picks for Summer Sends appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/smart-crag-picks-for-summer-sends/
  • A Tribute to Virginia Boucher

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    It is with great appreciation that the American Alpine Club honors and celebrates the life of Virginia (Ginnie) Boucher—an unsung hero in the Club’s history.  Virginia Boucher was the chair for the AAC Library Committee for a decade, and a driving force in introducing best practices to the AAC Library from the 1990s onward—including online access to the AAC’s library catalog, expansion of library staff, and implementing interlibrary loans in this highly niche space of mountaineering libraries and literature. Boucher was also instrumental in the physical move of the AAC Library from the AAC’s original Clubhouse in New York to its current location among the mountains of Golden, Colorado.  Boucher received the 2005 Angelo Heilprin Citation from the AAC for exemplary service to the Club, thanks to her transformational leadership at the AAC Library. Not only did her leadership bring the full force of library science to bear on this now world-renowned library and archive, but she also helped steward the acquisition of many pieces of the John M. Boyle Himalayan Collection and the Nicholas B. Clinch Collection, two keystone collections in the AAC’s current holdings.  In the notes announcing her award of the Heilprin Citation, the Award Committee shares some tidbits that suggest that Boucher wasn’t just the bookish type—she also had a flair for adventure. The committee notes that she and her husband, Stanley Boucher–a lifetime member of the AAC—were known for their unplanned night descents, and had a hilarious story about fighting off porcupines in the San Juans. She climbed the Grand Teton, Rainier, and many of Colorado’s mountains, and in her early years started off her climbing at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs.  Boucher’s extensive impact as a volunteer for the AAC’s Library Committee was fueled by her love for the mountains and her calling as a librarian. But by the time she was serving on the committee, she had left climbing behind her. In her autobiography, she writes of this part of herself: “I know a number of those who have ‘summited’ Mount Everest…those who are addicted to boulders, and a few such as myself who climb [only] in our memories.” But even so, climbing was a part of her history and identity, and after shepherding the AAC Library into the world-class institution it is today, she recalls how her volunteer involvement with the AAC Library brought her full-circle in her career: “I have drawn upon my special library experience…to give the best advice I can to this emerging and unique library… And finally, I have returned to my beginnings; I shelve books once again.” https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/a-tribute-to-virginia-boucher
  • Babsi Zangerl flashes Freerider (5.13a/F7c+)

    General News climbing
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    climber-magazineC
    Babsi Zangerl, climbing with her partner Jacopo Larcher, has made an historic flash of El Cap over a three-day push via Freerider (5.13a). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/babsi-zangerl-flashes-freerider-5-13a-f7c/
  • A Letter To The Zine by Tavish Hansen

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    Dearest Luke, I have been meaning to write to you for some time, but I have Zine 23 fresh on my mind and some spare time, so here it goes. I don’t even know where to begin with this. My name is Tavish, and I’m a twenty-three-year-old climber from Seattle. I managed to end up… https://climbingzine.com/a-letter-to-the-zine-by-tavish-hansen/
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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/profiles/visiting-squamish-in-2024-heres-which-guidebook-you-should-get/