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Speed finals | Bali 2025

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  • Know Before You Go—Calling for a Rescue

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    If you’re an AAC member at the Partner, Leader, Advocate, or Great Ranges Fellowship level, then you have access to the AAC’s rescue benefit. Make sure you know how to initiate a rescue—before you find yourself in that kind of situation. We know that a lot of our members put their trust into Garmin products* as a backup for when a cell phone isn’t reliable. Here’s how to prepare your Garmin device to contact Redpoint Travel Protection in the case of an emergency away from home: *Did you know that AAC members receive 20% off Garmin products through ExpertVoice? Sign up for your account today at expertvoice.com/group/aac to start shopping with hundreds of brands. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/11/6/know-before-you-gocalling-for-a-rescue
  • A Tribute to Chuck Fleischman

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    We are sad to share that beloved AAC community member Charles (Chuck) Fleischman passed away in November of 2025. Chuck was a devoted member of the AAC board of directors from 2013 to 2019, and was truly a person who lived out loud.  Chuck was a Harvard graduate who cofounded Digene Corporation, a molecular diagnostics company. Chuck’s work with Digene, as President, CFO, and director, resulted in the first FDA-approved test to detect high-risk HPV before it caused cervical cancer.  When he semi-retired, he threw himself into supporting other meaningful work, including his board term at the AAC. With Jackson Hole as their home, Chuck and his wife Lisa wanted to make a difference in their community. So their first step, beyond membership, was giving back to the local AAC community by supporting the introduction of solar panels on Cabin 2 at the AAC’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch.   As an AAC board member, Chuck was the kind to always be outspoken and always push for greatness. He was very mission driven, always pursued excellence, and held the AAC to those same standards. Phil Powers, past AAC Executive Director, remembers his tough questions, but offered always with an upbeat demeanor, as well as a gregarious laugh.   Chuck’s commitment to the AAC was grounded in his love of the mountains and wilderness. He would ski as many days as the weather gods would allow, including more than 80 days each season, even as he was fighting off cancer. He regularly went on big ski adventures with partners like Jimmy Chin and Kit DeLauriers. Chuck was also a river rat and a committed climber, having summited El Cap, gone on expedition to K2, and floated the Grand Canyon many times.  Chuck lived larger than life, and his impact on the AAC will be felt for years to come. Our thoughts are with Chuck’s family as they process his passing.  “Chuck has been a career mentor but also a climbing and adventure mentor for me. He taught me not only about how to be a professional, and how to take my experience with being on the board of the Bay Area Climbers Coalition and build it into my role as an AAC board member, but he also taught me how to look for big objectives in the mountains. Being on the AAC BOD was probably the biggest summit I could have tried to climb. But he also inspired me to pursue Shasta, Whitney, and other big objectives. It was all directly a benefit of his mentorship.” —Jen Bruursema, former AAC board member “If I was going on a hike with Chuck, I knew it was going to be A) a great day, and B) there were going to be some hard questions to tackle along the way. I knew it meant he really just cared about the Club. He wasn’t going to let a day go by without pushing us forward.” —Phil Powers, former Executive Director of the American Alpine Club https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/12/10/a-tribute-to-chuck-fleischman
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    GrippedG
    Four ice climbers spent New Years 1975 in a cave on the side of Cirrus Mountain in the Canadian Rockies The post Polar Circus: The Ice Climb That Took Eight Days on the First Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/polar-circus-the-ice-climb-that-took-eight-days-on-the-first-ascent/
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    Lisa Lorenzin (she/her)L
    #makeShitMonday, #climbing edition...@mbroome and I haven't been climbing as much this year, partly due to schedules, partly my shoulder recovery. But we got out to Pilot Mountain last Sunday with a bunch of friends, and that reminded me that I've been meaning to replace my various tied cords - prusiks and foot loop for emergency rope ascent, spare footloop that doubles as my chalkbag belt, and autoblock for rappel backup - since they're all well over a decade old by now. They all *look* fine, but cord is cheap and nylon degrades over time, so...He picked up some cord for us back in October, so we dug out the hot knife, set up a fan in the garage, and got to work. I had to go in for a respirator mask almost immediately - something about burning plastic gives me an instant headache - but we got them all cut to length and re-tied pretty quickly. Not quite the same diameters as the original cord, but I gave the autoblock a test drive on Thursday and it worked just fine! @cannibal #rockclimbing #DIY
  • Climbers Once Tried to Drive Up to Yamnuska

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    In the 1960s, three climbers tried to drive a truck up to the base of one of Canada's most iconic walls The post Climbers Once Tried to Drive Up to Yamnuska appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/climbers-once-tried-to-drive-up-to-yamnuska/
  • These Climbers Have Done V17 and 5.15c

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Will Bosi just joined a short list of climbers who've completed two of the hardest grades in rock climbing The post These Climbers Have Done V17 and 5.15c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/these-climbers-have-done-v17-and-5-15c/
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    UK ClimbingU
    'The Brawl' is the Font's largest annual event attracting competitors from all over the UK - even some from Europe. This year, two Team GB Olympians took the win in Wandsworth. The 2024 Tenzing Brawl on the Wall at The Font Wandsworth in south-west London delivered all the drama and world-class climbing fans could ... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=776601
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eQqbtLEvJg