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This Excalibur Variation Might Be 5.16a

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    GrippedG
    Leo Bøe, who made the sixth ascent of Change last fall, has shared a conversation he recently had with Adam Ondra The post Adam Ondra Talks About Downgrading Change, His Groundbreaking 5.15c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-talks-about-downgrading-change-his-groundbreaking-5-15c/
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    WilmaT
    Theresa in 'RedLine' 7c Frankenjura, Obertrubach Picture by Paul Lahaye #climbing #sportclimbing
  • How Strong is a V Thread

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3WrZrDAaIs
  • The Art Of Downclimbing

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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZumfMsxH8aY
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    GrippedG
    In July 1953, a teenage Jerry Gallwas joined Royal Robbins and Don Wilson for the second ascent of this challenging Yosemite line. Seventy-two years later, Gallwas recalls the climb The post Jerry Gallwas Remembers Yosemite’s Steck-Salathé Route on Sentinel appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/jerry-gallwas-remembers-yosemites-steck-salathe-route-on-sentinel/
  • No Bolts Used on New Dolomites M8+ WI5+

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Few routes of this calibre are repeated so quickly, but this is destined to become a classic The post No Bolts Used on New Dolomites M8+ WI5+ appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/no-bolts-used-on-new-dolomites-m8-wi5/
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Giuliano Cameroni Opens Third Eye V15

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/giuliano-cameroni-opens-third-eye-v15/