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James Pearson gets third ascent of Mystic River (Font 8C)

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19 Feb 2025, 23:00

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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cy63d30eWdk
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    Italian Lead ace, Laura Rogora, takes women’s on-sight climbing to new level with Ultimate Sacrifice, a renowned long and pumpy F8c+ in Gorge du Loup, France. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/laura-rogora-drives-women-s-on-sights-level-with-ultimate-sacrifice-f8c/
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    The European Military Climbing Championships 2025 took place between 24-26 June 2025 at the new 270 Climbing Park in Gloucester. Hosted by the Army Mountaineering Association, the event brought together over 60 athletes from across Fra... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=782675
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    First climbed by Stevie Haston, this alpine test-piece follows a splitter to a crimpy face with a dyno The post This 5.14 Crack From 1994 Was Futuristic appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/this-5-14-crack-from-1994-was-futuristic/
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    It’s bouldering season in Hueco Tanks, Texas. While most consider bouldering relatively safe, it is perhaps the most accident- and injury-plagued facet of climbing. This month we bring you an accident that took place in 2024 on a famous John Sherman highball called See Spot Run.   This accident will be featured in the 2025 Accidents in North American Climbing. On January 22, I (Pete Korpics, 35) was attempting to climb a long-standing project of mine called See Spot Run (V6). I was well aware of the risks involved and that it would require ample padding.  During previous sessions, I had placed six or more pads in a wide area including the back of the fall zone. Six pads or more is ideal, but I was admittedly negligent on the day of the accident, as I felt I’d complete the route and was excited to do it. I also felt that the pad number and pad placement—five total and not as wide as prior attempts—was adequate, given the presence of two spotters. I felt very strong getting to the crux. After pulling through the crux, I got very pumped, lost momentum, and hesitated. We all know that moment when you feel uncertain about the next move. In those moments we tell ourselves, “Do it anyway.” Sometimes this works, but often it doesn’t. In this case, I fell.  I fell from roughly 15 feet up, with quite a bit of force. My spotters were hesitant to put their bodies in harm’s way. I had told them that, above the crux, staying clear was the best thing to do. Having two people injured is worse than one.  Due to the momentum of the fall and the poor pad placement, my left foot hit the rock and right foot hit the pad. I severely sprained my ankle. It was probably not helpful that it has in the past received the same injury.   Bouldering is inherently dangerous, and highball problems particularly so. Besides being a four-star John Sherman classic, See Spot Run is a notorious ankle breaker. It is 25 feet tall and described on Mountainproject.com as “one of the more notorious highball problems at Hueco.” During the same season that Korpics had his accident, other falls from the route caused multiple ankle sprains. Keep ‘Em On The Pad! On highballs, the impact forces of a falling climber can be equally hazardous to the spotter. The general rule for highballs (and all bouldering for that matter) is to ensure that the falling climber lands on the pads and stays on the pads after impact. Spotting might look less like controlling and guiding the fall, and more like giving the falling climber a shove to keep them on the pads. The spotter(s) should also protect the head and neck from striking bare ground, rocks, etc. Korpics wrote to ANAC: ”Preventable action would have included better pad placement and more pads. We could have used thinner pads to cover gaps between pads. This accident may also have been prevented by assertive spotting, and a strong shove from one of the spotters would have landed me on the pads. That possibility was negated because I had instructed my spotters to stand clear if I fell from above the crux. “Confidence should not lead to complacency,” he continued. “I’d been climbing a lot and climbing well, including numerous highballs prior to the accident, so I’d let my guard down. I do not blame the spotters, as I had given them specific instructions. I had placed the pads, I chose to climb despite knowing more pads would be better, and the injury was my fault.” (Sources: Pete Korpics, Mountainproject.com, and the Editors.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/1/14/the-prescriptionjanuary
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    Today for the first time tried climbing over 90° overhang, with partial successIt took 3 attempts to grab the first hold above the overhang with both hands and place my body horizontallyThis first part turned out to be way easier than expected. So for me the focus of the first week of training in 2025 would be practicing raising straight legs while hanging (instead of raising knees)It feels like completing this overhang with my current shape would be very hard, but still possible and worth trying#climbing
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    On a short visit to Maltatal, she topped the stunning Hide and Sick V14, plus a few other hard blocs The post Janja Garnbret Sends a V14 and Two V13s in Austria appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/janja-garnbret-sends-a-v14-and-two-v13s-in-austria/