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Alex Honnold: Help Access Fund Close the Climbing Mentorship Gap

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    GrippedG
    The iconic route was first climbed back in 1969 by Jim Bridwell and Kim Schmitz The post Connor Herson Makes First Free Ascent of Triple Direct on El Capitan appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/connor-herson-makes-first-free-ascent-of-triple-direct-on-el-capitan/
  • Rockfall Kills Climber After She Summited K2

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    GrippedG
    This is the third rockfall fatality of the season in the Karakoram The post Rockfall Kills Climber After She Summited K2 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/rockfall-kills-climber-after-she-summited-k2/
  • Alpinist Solos 1,000-foot New Granite Line

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    GrippedG
    Simon Gietl has added another impressive first ascent to his resume of technical climbs The post Alpinist Solos 1,000-foot New Granite Line appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alpinist-solos-1000-foot-new-granite-line/
  • Climber Dies on Scotland’s Ben Nevis

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    GrippedG
    Two climbers took a 60-metre fall, which resulted in a rescue and recovery by the Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team The post Climber Dies on Scotland’s Ben Nevis appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-dies-on-scotlands-ben-nevis/
  • Guidebook XII—Member Spotlight

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    American Alpine ClubA
    “Driving towards Highway 285, we pass strips of red rock cutting through the foothills of Morrison in Colorado’s Front Range, chasing the promise of new climbs. In the front seat, Josh Pollock describes the Narrow Gauge Slab, a new crag he has been developing in Jefferson County. Pollock is the type of person who points out the ecology of the world around him. As the car weaves along the mid-elevation Ponderosa Pine forest, Pollock describes how we’ll see cute pin cushion cacti, black-chinned or broad-tailed hummingbirds, and Douglas-fir tussock moth caterpillars. We pull into a three-level parking lot about seven miles down the Pine Valley Ranch Road. With no cell service and heavy packs, we set off along an old railroad trail toward the crag. Not even ten minutes into our walk, Pollock turns off, and we are greeted by a Jeffco trail crew building switchbacks to the crag.” https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/11/20/the-guidebook-xii
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    GrippedG
    USA Climbing's grand finale of 2024 starts today and will run through to Wednesday. Many of the country's top comp climbers will battle for gold in boulder, lead, and speed The post Chris Sharma Is Competing at the USA Climbing National Championships appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/chris-sharma-is-competing-at-the-usa-climbing-national-championships/
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u13QJAVQfRE