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Michaela Kiersch makes first female ascent of first Font 8C, Dreamtime

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15 Nov 2024, 00:00

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    Spike Fullwood, one of the UK’s promising teenage young guns, has just sent Superman (Font 8B) at Crag X in the Peak District. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/spike-fullwood-is-superman/
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    In this episode of the AAC podcast, we have adventure writer Cassidy Randall on to talk about her new book, "Thirty Below." Thirty Below is the gripping story of the Denali Damsels–a group of female adventurers who achieved the first all-women’s ascent of Denali, also known as Mt. McKinley, the tallest peak in North America. Everyone told the “Denali Damsels,” that it couldn’t be done, that women were incapable of climbing mountains on their own. It was 1970. Men had walked on the moon; but women still had not stood on the highest points on Earth. But these six women were unwilling to be limited. They pushed past barriers in society at large, the climbing world, and their own bodies. Following vibrant mountaineers with a lot of personality, like the stubborn Grace Hoemann and the brilliant chemist Arlene Blum, this book tells a rich tale of a community's set of limiting beliefs, and the women who dared to prove them wrong, despite disaster and risk on the expedition. In the episode, Cassidy and the AAC dive into some of the experiences of these women that pushed them to achieve more and more in their mountaineering careers, the challenges of archival research, and capturing a climbing story that is too often forgotten. Buy the Book Learn More About Cassidy Randall Learn More About Arlene Blum https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/27/thirty-below-the-forgotten-story-of-the-denali-damsels
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    The mentorship gap is a frequent topic of discussion in a lot of climbing circles, and the gap seems to be especially pronounced for climbers trying to get into crag and boulder development. In this episode, we dove into the joys of having too many mentors to count. Long-time developer and AAC member Josh Pollock decided to collaborate with Jefferson County, in the Front Range of Colorado, to develop a beginner-friendly crag called the Narrow Gauge Slabs. For this project, sustainability and accessibility was a focus from the start, and Josh and other local developers designed a mentorship program that would coincide with developing the crag, to support climbers of traditionally marginalized backgrounds who want to equip themselves with knowledge and mentorship resources so that they could be developers and mentors in their own right. In this episode, we sat down with Lily Toyokura Hill and Ali Arfeen, two mentees in the program who have really taken this experience and run with it, stepping into leadership roles in the local climbing community. We cover what inspired them to become developers, perceptions of route development and who belongs, grading and individual bolting styles, and much more. The conversation with Lily, Ali, and Josh illuminates a lot about the power of mentorship and the complex considerations of developing in modern climbing. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/11/18/connect-the-next-generation-of-crag-developers
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    "I felt nervous when I reached the crux pitch but somehow managed to save some power for the low percentage crux, reaching the final hold with a big pump," said Zangerl The post Zangerl and Larcher Climb 350-Metre 5.14b appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/zangerl-and-larcher-climb-350-metre-5-14b/
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    I clipped her to the anchor, untied her knot, and pulled the rope through the gear. “I need more time.” Jessica whispered so weakly that I had to lean close to hear her. “We don’t have more time. We have to get help,” I replied. “What happened?” “You fell. You broke your arm and leg.”… https://climbingzine.com/fall-on-rock-by-george-perkins/
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    https://www.climbing.com/news/the-inaugural-outside-festival-in-denver-rocked-heres-what-you-missed/