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  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • Hard boulder repeats in Switzerland

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    Switzerland has been the sceneof a number of top-end bouldering ascents, withJames Pearson, Yannick Floh, and Elias Iagnemma all making hard repeats of rarely climbed boulders in the region of 8C - 8C+. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779032
  • 0 Votes
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    Lumi AkimovaL
    Today for the first time tried climbing over 90° overhang, with partial successIt took 3 attempts to grab the first hold above the overhang with both hands and place my body horizontallyThis first part turned out to be way easier than expected. So for me the focus of the first week of training in 2025 would be practicing raising straight legs while hanging (instead of raising knees)It feels like completing this overhang with my current shape would be very hard, but still possible and worth trying#climbing
  • We Saved Paradise and Put Up a Parking Lot

    General News accessfund climbing
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    Access FundA
    There are a few crags and bouldering areas around the country where you don’t need a car to get there because you can take the subway or ride your bike. But the reality is that most of the places where we climb require some kind of personal vehicle to get there. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/we-saved-paradise-and-put-up-a-parking-lot
  • New Sale Bundle Volumes 21 -24 for $40

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    Score 400 pages of reading material + three dope stickers for $40 NEW Bundle Sale Volumes 21 – 24 https://climbingzine.com/new-sale-bundle-volumes-21-24-for-40/
  • 0 Votes
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    UK ClimbingU
    "Hey I'm going back to Mirror Wall in the summer, there's an absolute king line, let me know if you're psyched to join" were the words of Sean's message in my inbox. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775118
  • Breaking Harken's Expectations

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cb7Is8a_Ils
  • What is a Climbing Rope?

    Gear weighmyrack climbing
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    Weigh My RackW
    https://blog.weighmyrack.com/what-is-a-climbing-rope/