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Ondrej Húserka Dies After First Ascent of Langtang Lirung’s East Face

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  • A Climber We Lost: Stewart M. Green

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    climbingC
    Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community. https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-stewart-green/
  • Will Gadd: Keeping your hands warm, Part 2

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    AlpineSavvyA
    Here are some winter-tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part two of a series of three articles. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-hands-warm-part-2
  • Patrick Vonbrül Climbs a Fred Nicole V15

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    GrippedG
    After two years of projecting, Patrick Vonbrül completed the burly problem The post Patrick Vonbrül Climbs a Fred Nicole V15 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/patrick-vonbrul-climbs-a-fred-nicole-v15/
  • EDUCATE: The Forgotten Stonemaster

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    American Alpine ClubA
    We are so excited to have longtime AAC member Rick Accomazzo on the podcast to chat about his new book “Tobin, the Stonemasters, and Me, 1970-1980.” This book is part memoir of Rick’s own early climbing career, part revealing biography of Tobin Sorenson, the forgotten Stonemaster who was an incredible all-arounder; and part a distillation of a decade of climbing culture. With these three threads, the book weaves together many untold climbing stories from an iconic, pivotal decade, from “before climbing lost its innocence,” as John Long says in his forward to the book. Listen to the episode to hear some key stories from the book and learn about the ten-year process of putting it together. We’d also like to congratulate Rick for his book being longlisted for the Banff Mountain Literature Award! Dive into the episode to get your dose of forgotten climbing history. You can grab your own copy at stonemasterbooks.com Buy the Book Banff Mountain Literature Awards https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/10/30/educate-the-forgotten-stonemaster
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Formerly the HARDEST climb in the WORLD

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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CdJg2bQVOQ
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    UK ClimbingU
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=771908
  • The Art of Route Setting 👉Testing Phase

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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMcTM2x8NHE