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What Type of Belay Device Do I Use?

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  • British Bouldering Championships 2025: Report

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    climber-magazineC
    Following August’s 2024 British Bouldering Championships, 2025’s event occurred just five months later at the UK’s latest addition to the indoor rock-climbing scene: BIG Depot Manchester. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/british-bouldering-championships-2025-report/
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    GrippedG
    President Barack Obama had changed it to Denali in 2015 The post Trump Wants to Rename Alaska’s Denali Back to Mount McKinley appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/trump-wants-to-rename-alaskas-denali-back-to-mount-mckinley/
  • Flashed another 5.12a this morning.

    General Climbing
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    foon@mastodon.socialF
    Flashed another 5.12a this morning. I think my default assumption is now an onsight on a 12a, which was absolutely not the case a few months ago. This feels great and I’m really proud of my progress. I took a big step back in the last few years (gym closures, belay partners leaving etc) so it feels great to be back. #climbing
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • New Book on 50 of Canada’s Best Rock Climbs

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/new-book-on-50-of-canadas-best-rock-climbs/
  • Weekend Whipper: Big Airtime on Runout Sport Climb

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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/videos/long-climbing-fall-sport-climb/
  • Steel or Playdough?

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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctcQe_yN0Tk
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    climbingC
    Our reviewer says La Sportiva has (finally) nailed their No Edge shoe tech with the Mandala. He quickly added the new-school weapons to his steep sport climbing quiver. https://www.climbing.com/gear/la-sportiva-mandala-review/