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Victory: Climbers Purchase Property Critical for Northeast Access

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  • Gio Placci Sends a Stefano Ghisolfi 5.15a

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The Arco sport route was the Italian climber's fifth route 5.15a and up The post Gio Placci Sends a Stefano Ghisolfi 5.15a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/gio-placci-sends-a-stefano-ghisolfi-5-15a/
  • Emma Hunt 🇺🇸 | Athlete of the Week

    Videos climbing ifsc
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiootLMvXp4
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    GrippedG
    "To say that the stars aligned is figurative, but to say that the Sun, Earth, and Moon aligned is in this case literal, and the gorgeous terrain of the Chaltén Massif was illuminated by a brilliantly bright full moon," said Colin Haley The post Colin Haley Solos the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre in Winter appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/colin-haley-solos-the-ragni-route-on-cerro-torre-in-winter/
  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • 1 Votes
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    Garret :bongoCat:G
    Got a good #climbing workout in before all the children showed up. 5.75.75.85.95.10c5.10c5.10a5.9I don’t have anything AGAINST children, per se. But they do tend to clog up the works at the climbing gym. Once enough of them show up, it’s just time to go unless you want to wait a while for a route to open up.
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    climber-magazineC
    Caroline “Caro” Ciavaldini has made the third female ascent of Greenspit, the overhanging crack testpiece in Valle dell’Orco, Italy. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/caroline-ciavaldini-repeats-greenspit-f8b-valle-dell-orco-italy/
  • EDUCATE: The Forgotten Stonemaster

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    We are so excited to have longtime AAC member Rick Accomazzo on the podcast to chat about his new book “Tobin, the Stonemasters, and Me, 1970-1980.” This book is part memoir of Rick’s own early climbing career, part revealing biography of Tobin Sorenson, the forgotten Stonemaster who was an incredible all-arounder; and part a distillation of a decade of climbing culture. With these three threads, the book weaves together many untold climbing stories from an iconic, pivotal decade, from “before climbing lost its innocence,” as John Long says in his forward to the book. Listen to the episode to hear some key stories from the book and learn about the ten-year process of putting it together. We’d also like to congratulate Rick for his book being longlisted for the Banff Mountain Literature Award! Dive into the episode to get your dose of forgotten climbing history. You can grab your own copy at stonemasterbooks.com Buy the Book Banff Mountain Literature Awards https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/10/30/educate-the-forgotten-stonemaster
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXC33AT_w78