Skip to content

Interview Michael and Tom de Csillry on climbing all 82 4,000 metre European Alpine peaks

General News
1 1 102 1

Suggested topics


  • New Free Online Maps for Backcountry Users

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    61 Views
    GrippedG
    These maps can be integrated with GPS devices or mobile apps, providing real-time navigation in the field The post New Free Online Maps for Backcountry Users appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-free-online-maps-for-backcountry-users/
  • The Line— Skiing the Tetons Enduro Traverse

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    105 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure. Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here. You can read an extended story—replete with Adam’s history of Teton link-ups—at the AAJ website. In 1963, John Evans, Richard Long, and Allen Steck completed the Grand Traverse, a summertime traverse of ten Teton Range summits, from Nez Perce to Teewinot (the opposite direction of how this now-classic traverse is usually done today). In the 1965 AAJ, Steck wrote, “Any route or time of day is acceptable, however, only be sure to finish within 24 hours.” For the Enduro ski traverse of the Tetons that I envisioned, sub-24 hours was our sole metric, as Steck had laid it out for us. For some years, I’ve been exploring Teton link-ups on skis with various partners, culminating with a day of skiing the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountain by some of their most technical routes. Sam Hennessey, Brendan O’Neill, and I pulled off this fine adventure in March 2023. To me it seemed logical to bring all of our experiences together in a much longer traverse—to see how far we could go in under 24 hours. In the Alaska Range, I have enjoyed moving under the midnight sun for 24, 30, hell, even 64 hours—why not see how this would work back home? It gets darker in Wyoming in the spring than in Alaska, but we have headlamps. The idea of the Enduro Traverse was to enchain the Teton skyline from Buck Mountain in the south to Teewinot, crossing over Mt. Wister, South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen along the way. At 6 p.m. on April 22, with the day’s heat still in the air, Michael Gardner, Brendan O’Neill, and I started skinning up Death Canyon in wet, sloppy snow. Under an endless sunset, we climbed the east ridge of Buck Mountain (11,938’) and clicked in on top for our first descent at 9:15 p.m. (A full moon allowed us to complete all the climbs sans headlamps, but we did use the lamps for our descents.) We skied down Buck’s hyper-classic east face and used a piece of terrain called the Buckshot to drop into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon. The next climb was the South Headwall of Mt. Wister (11,490’), which flows into the upper east ridge. We reached Wister’s summit at 10:53 p.m. This was the lowest peak in our traverse, yet it packed a punch. The northeast face offered up some proper steep skiing—it felt engaging via headlamp—and deposited the three of us in the North Fork of Avalanche Canyon. Our next ascent took us up the South Teton’s Amora Vida Couloir (much more fun to descend than ascend), and here we encountered our least efficient travel of the day, with heinous breakable crust and soggy snow engulfing our entire legs. From the top of the South Teton (12,514’), the descent by the Northwest Chute was fast and uneventful. Now in Garnet Canyon’s South Fork, we began our climb up the Middle Teton’s Southwest Couloir, where efficient cramponing put us on the summit rather quickly. The descent down the east face into the Middle Teton Glacier route was harrowing on the refrozen undulating snow left by skiers who had descended in the warm days before us. But we were not there for the ski quality, rather the continuous movement. From the North Fork of Garnet Canyon, we made quick work of the Ford-Stettner route, topping out the Grand Teton (13,770’) at 6 a.m., 12 hours into our journey. The sun was beginning to rise above the horizon, and it felt great to embrace its warmth again. With a long block of daylight ahead, the three of us were confident as we descended the Ford-Stettner, with some thoughtful downclimbing in the Chevy Couloir, which is normally rappelled. (To save weight, we did not carry a rope and chose lines that would go without one.) We made our way into the Dike Snowfield an... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/the-enduro-traverse
  • Prescription—High Altitude Cerebral Edema

    General News climbing
    1
    5 Votes
    1 Posts
    105 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of high altitude pulmonary edema and high altitude cerebral edema. While most of these incidents in North America occur in the Alaska Range, any terrain above 10,000 feet holds altitude hazards. Most cases are resolved by descending immediately upon the appearance of symptoms. But as you’ll read below, last spring on Denali, bad weather delayed a rescue helicopter, and by the time the climber was evacuated, it was too late. On May 30, 2024, an independent expedition at 14,200-foot camp notified rangers via radio that one member of their team, a 24-year-old Coloradan, had an altered mental status. The patient’s team stated that they had been dropped off by plane at base camp (7,200 feet) on May 27. Immediately upon landing, the team departed for the West Buttress Route, reaching 14,200-foot camp a day and a half later, on the evening of May 28. The team stated that upon reaching camp, all team members were feeling “OK.”  On the afternoon of May 30, teammates alerted NPS rangers that the Coloradan—after reportedly feeling “groggy” with a slight headache—began exhibiting severe symptoms of high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). A second team member was experiencing moderate symptoms of HAPE. Weather conditions did not allow helicopter flights on the night of May 30. A team of NPS rangers and volunteer patrol members performed 18 hours of advanced life support on the unresponsive HACE/HAPE patient throughout the night, including treatment in a hyperbaric chamber, medications, supplemental oxygen, and mechanical breathing assistance. On the morning of May 31, the patient was evacuated by helicopter with an Air National Guard Pararescue Specialist from the 212th Rescue Unit serving as the medical attendant. The patient was flown to Talkeetna and transferred to a LifeMed air ambulance for advanced care. Unfortunately, the patient succumbed to the effects of HACE/HAPE in the hospital. As many do, this team made the assumption that living at a relatively high altitude (over 5,000 feet) and maintaining a high level of fitness would prepare them adequately for swift elevation gain. This is a severe example of the inaccuracies of this assumption. Living at altitude and having good fitness are not guaranteed to protect climbers against high altitude illness (HAI). The human body starts losing adaptations to altitude in a matter of days, which is often the amount of time that climbers spend traveling to Alaska to begin an expedition. The Wilderness Medicine Society (WMS) recommends that, at elevations above 9,000 feet, climbers ascend no more than 1,650 feet (500 meters) to a new sleeping elevation each night. Additionally, for every 3,300 feet (1,000 meters) of elevation gain, the WMS recommends spending an extra day sleeping at a given elevation to further acclimatize. The mountaineering rangers on Denali see many very fit climbers arriving to attempt a summit each season. Although fitness is an important factor in risk management and safe travel on the mountain, it can also make the recommended conservative ascent profile feel onerous. Unfortunately, a climber’s level of fitness has no correlation with whether or not they become stricken with HAI. Only a reasonable ascent profile and proper acclimatization will prevent climbers from becoming ill. (Source: Denali Mountaineering Rangers.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/4/3/prescriptionhape-hace
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    89 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    Earlier this month, Arlo Rogers climbedEstado Crtico, and in doing so entered the ninth grade for the first time. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=778379
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    95 Views
    GrippedG
    We look at some of the most legendary Chinese alpinists as Arc'teryx prepares to launch a new line of made-for-alpinists apparel The post The Future is Now: The Evolution of Alpine Climbing in China appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-future-is-now-the-evolution-of-alpine-climbing-in-china/
  • Seb Bouin makes first ascent of Wolf Kingdom (F9b+)

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    123 Views
    climber-magazineC
    Sébastien Bouin recently made the first ascent of Wolf Kingdom F9b+, at Pic Saint Loup, France believing it to be his second hardest route ever. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/seb-bouin-makes-first-ascent-of-wolf-kingdom-f9b/
  • Jorge Díaz-Rullo Sends Adam Ondra’s Move 5.15b/c

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    95 Views
    GrippedG
    His repeat of the Flatanger line comes a few weeks after completing Ondra's Change The post Jorge Díaz-Rullo Sends Adam Ondra’s Move 5.15b/c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jorge-diaz-rullo-sends-adam-ondras-move-5-15b-c/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    122 Views
    GrippedG
    He climbed a blistering time of 4.75 at the qualification elimination heats today in Paris The post American Sam Watson Breaks Speed Climbing Record at Olympics appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/american-sam-watson-breaks-speed-climbing-record-at-olympics/