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Volume 25 Story List Now Available

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  • Recalled 30 years ago

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP3XlK-oZRM
  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    Patagonia's new collection combines all new designs with some completely re-engineered classics for a go to kit in the mountains The post First Look: Patagonia’s all new Free Wall Kit. A complete solution for your next multi-pitch adventure appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/first-look-patagonias-all-new-free-wall-kit-a-complete-solution-for-your-next-multi-pitch-adventure/
  • The Line— Skiing the Tetons Enduro Traverse

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure. Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here. You can read an extended story—replete with Adam’s history of Teton link-ups—at the AAJ website. In 1963, John Evans, Richard Long, and Allen Steck completed the Grand Traverse, a summertime traverse of ten Teton Range summits, from Nez Perce to Teewinot (the opposite direction of how this now-classic traverse is usually done today). In the 1965 AAJ, Steck wrote, “Any route or time of day is acceptable, however, only be sure to finish within 24 hours.” For the Enduro ski traverse of the Tetons that I envisioned, sub-24 hours was our sole metric, as Steck had laid it out for us. For some years, I’ve been exploring Teton link-ups on skis with various partners, culminating with a day of skiing the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountain by some of their most technical routes. Sam Hennessey, Brendan O’Neill, and I pulled off this fine adventure in March 2023. To me it seemed logical to bring all of our experiences together in a much longer traverse—to see how far we could go in under 24 hours. In the Alaska Range, I have enjoyed moving under the midnight sun for 24, 30, hell, even 64 hours—why not see how this would work back home? It gets darker in Wyoming in the spring than in Alaska, but we have headlamps. The idea of the Enduro Traverse was to enchain the Teton skyline from Buck Mountain in the south to Teewinot, crossing over Mt. Wister, South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen along the way. At 6 p.m. on April 22, with the day’s heat still in the air, Michael Gardner, Brendan O’Neill, and I started skinning up Death Canyon in wet, sloppy snow. Under an endless sunset, we climbed the east ridge of Buck Mountain (11,938’) and clicked in on top for our first descent at 9:15 p.m. (A full moon allowed us to complete all the climbs sans headlamps, but we did use the lamps for our descents.) We skied down Buck’s hyper-classic east face and used a piece of terrain called the Buckshot to drop into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon. The next climb was the South Headwall of Mt. Wister (11,490’), which flows into the upper east ridge. We reached Wister’s summit at 10:53 p.m. This was the lowest peak in our traverse, yet it packed a punch. The northeast face offered up some proper steep skiing—it felt engaging via headlamp—and deposited the three of us in the North Fork of Avalanche Canyon. Our next ascent took us up the South Teton’s Amora Vida Couloir (much more fun to descend than ascend), and here we encountered our least efficient travel of the day, with heinous breakable crust and soggy snow engulfing our entire legs. From the top of the South Teton (12,514’), the descent by the Northwest Chute was fast and uneventful. Now in Garnet Canyon’s South Fork, we began our climb up the Middle Teton’s Southwest Couloir, where efficient cramponing put us on the summit rather quickly. The descent down the east face into the Middle Teton Glacier route was harrowing on the refrozen undulating snow left by skiers who had descended in the warm days before us. But we were not there for the ski quality, rather the continuous movement. From the North Fork of Garnet Canyon, we made quick work of the Ford-Stettner route, topping out the Grand Teton (13,770’) at 6 a.m., 12 hours into our journey. The sun was beginning to rise above the horizon, and it felt great to embrace its warmth again. With a long block of daylight ahead, the three of us were confident as we descended the Ford-Stettner, with some thoughtful downclimbing in the Chevy Couloir, which is normally rappelled. (To save weight, we did not carry a rope and chose lines that would go without one.) We made our way into the Dike Snowfield an... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/the-enduro-traverse
  • 0 Votes
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    GrippedG
    “We saw big rocks coming down... anywhere from microwave- to mini-fridge-sized, maybe slightly bigger—and they went right over both of us,” Yager recalls The post Rockfall on the South Face of Half Dome: Ken Yager’s Close Call appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/rockfall-on-the-south-face-of-half-dome-ken-yagers-close-call/
  • These Climbers Have Done V17 and 5.15c

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Will Bosi just joined a short list of climbers who've completed two of the hardest grades in rock climbing The post These Climbers Have Done V17 and 5.15c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/these-climbers-have-done-v17-and-5-15c/
  • 2025 Ontario Crags Calendars & End-of-Year Wrap Up

    Ontario climbing ontario
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    O
    As 2024 comes to an end, it’s almost time to switch out your 2024 calendar with the newest 2025 Ontario Crags Calendar! Or, visit Ontario Gear Co. or Climb Smart... https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/2024/12/27/2025-ontario-crags-calendars-end-of-year-wrap-up/
  • We Saved Paradise and Put Up a Parking Lot

    General News accessfund climbing
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    Access FundA
    There are a few crags and bouldering areas around the country where you don’t need a car to get there because you can take the subway or ride your bike. But the reality is that most of the places where we climb require some kind of personal vehicle to get there. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/we-saved-paradise-and-put-up-a-parking-lot
  • Be honest… what was your first pair of #climbing shoes?

    Videos climbing
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsZYqTHIL9g