Skip to content

Three Epic Alpine Climbs Awarded Piolet d’Or in 2025

General News
1 1 79 1

Suggested topics


  • Sharing Your Climbing Story in the Age of AI

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    29 Views
    GrippedG
    With more AI content than ever online, climbers can still turn to print to share their stories and photos The post Sharing Your Climbing Story in the Age of AI appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/sharing-your-climbing-story-in-the-age-of-ai/
  • Pete Whittaker’s “Soft Deck Out” Close Call

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    25 Views
    GrippedG
    Pete Whittaker attempts a big urban crack in Germany The post Pete Whittaker’s “Soft Deck Out” Close Call appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/pete-whittakers-soft-deck-out-close-call/
  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    162 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    200 Views
    GrippedG
    A motivational climbing film about Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher and with an appearance by Alex Honnold The post Babsi Zangerl’s Freerider Flash Just Dropped on Film appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/babsi-zangerls-freerider-flash-just-dropped-on-film/
  • The Prescription—Top-Rope Solo

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    165 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    In this month’s Prescription, an expert climber made two crucial errors in her rope ascension/top-rope solo system. She fortunately escaped with relatively minor injuries. This accident was featured in the 2024 Accidents in North American Climbing. On October 8, 2023 Whitney Clark was ascending a fixed rope at the start of Valkyrie (17 pitches, 5.11+) when her single ascension device was jammed by a sling. She fell 30 feet to the ground. Clark wrote to ANAC: “We woke at around 6 a.m. and made our way to the fixed line from the day before. The days were short and we had many pitches to do. My partner, Luka Krajnc, went first, using a Grigri to jug and then transitioning to climbing. About 40 feet up, he clove-hitched the rope to a bolt. I then started jugging with a single Micro Traxion. Thirty feet up, I leaned back on the rope. My body weight wasn’t supported because the sling around my neck [part of the top-rope solo setup] got sucked into the device and caught in the teeth of the Traxion. The rope was sliding against the sling. I hadn’t tied a backup knot.” Clark attempted to wrap the rope around her leg. But her rope was new, thin, and slippery. She wrote, “I grabbed the rope and slowly started sliding down. Eventually the rope burn was too painful and I let go. I hit the ground, landed on my feet, and fell backward. I struck my lower back and then my head. I was wearing a helmet. Because the ground was angled, some of the force was dissipated, though I landed six inches from a large rock spike. “I never lost consciousness but was in a bit of shock. Luka rappelled down and did a spinal exam. He got me comfortable, and I sat there for a while. I had pain in my back and my left ankle. I used my inReach to call for a rescue while Luka retrieved our stuff. I started crawling and butt-scooting to where a heli could reach me. I would have loved to have self-rescued, but it’s a 16-mile hike out. It took about 2.5 hours of crawling to make it to a flat place. Four hours later, a helicopter airlifted me to the Visalia Level III trauma center.”  Whitney Clark’s progress-capture device failed when the as-yet-unused retention sling got stuck in the device as she was ascending. It is common practice to use a sling and an elastic connection to hold the progress-capture device upright as one climbs along a fixed rope. Photo: Luka Krajnc Top-rope soloing is becoming increasingly popular. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and IFMGA/AMGA guide Jason Antin are back to provide an accident analysis and give you some quick tips on how to mitigate risk when top-rope soloing. Top-rope soloing is an integral part of modern climbing. Currently, only one device (the El Mudo) is designed and commercially available for top-rope (and lead) soloing. There are many ways to configure these systems and we’ve demonstrated one possible solution here. Solo top-roping allows a climber to self-belay when no partner is available, for a team to work on individual sections of a route without the need for a belayer, or for two climbers to move simultaneously, as in this situation. The errors Clark made were using only one device to safeguard her progress and not tying a backup knot. “I was jugging by pulling on the rope, syncing up the slack, and sitting back,” Clark said. “The route was meandering and the fixed line didn’t allow me to readily climb, so I decided to jug straight up the initial blank slab. The sling around my neck was going to hold the Traxion upright [allowing the rope to feed freely] once I started climbing. I haven’t done any top-rope soloing since the accident. I probably will at some point, but I will definitely use two devices. This was the first time I only used a single progress-capture device.”  (Source: Whitney Clark.) Each membership is critical to the AAC’s work: advocating for climbing access and natural landscapes, offering essential knowledge to the climbing community through our accident analysis and documentation of cutting edge climbing, and supporting our members with our rescue benefit, discounts, grants and more. Plus, get the new 2025 member tee! https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/2/11/the-prescription
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    121 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    The route, his third at 9a+ in 2024 alone, was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2016, but is best known for its second ascent, when Adam Ondra became the first person ever to flash a route at 9a+. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777086
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    120 Views
    climbingC
    Climbing and travel go hand in hand. But getting there with all your gear can be a pain. https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-fly-with-a-crashpad/
  • Scarpa Drago Limited CAC Edition

    General Climbing climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    146 Views
    devnullD
    You, too, can climb in pink shoes. https://www.climbersagainstcancer.org/shop/scarpa-drago-limited-cac-edition/