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Katie Lamb on The Rookery V14

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  • A Tribute to Balin Miller

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    It is with great sorrow that we honor the passing of AAC member Balin Miller (23), who died in a climbing accident in Yosemite in October 2025. Miller was an astonishing rising star, dedicated to the sport and exceedingly bold as an ice climber. He was an AAC member for four years, and received the Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant (MFFG) multiple times, which awards climbers age 25 and younger with funds to explore remote areas and seek out climbs more difficult than they might ordinarily be able to do. The AAC featured one of his MFFG-funded trips to Canada in our publication, Guidebook XII. In the pages of “Mountain Sense,” you will get a glimpse of this stalwart ice climber who had a goofy side.  Miller was known for his audacious solos, like his solo of Fitz Roy, and the infamous Reality Bath in Canada—until Miller’s ascent, unrepeated since it was first put up by Mark Twight and Randy Rackliff in 1988. Though he was best known for these solos, he also regularly roped up with partners he trusted, accomplishing notable climbs like the Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington, Deprivation on Mt. Hunter, and the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre.  Before he passed, Miller had been working on a story for the 2026 AAJ about his 2025 summer season in Alaska. One highlight achievement of that summer was his historic solo of the Slovak Direct (M6 WI 6 A2; 9,000ft) on Denali (Mt. McKinley). The AAJ will be publishing his story posthumously to honor his legacy, accomplished in such a short life.  While we honor Balin’s life and accomplishments here, more than anything, we are left with a somber realization of the pain experienced by those who are grieving him. Our thoughts are with Balin’s family and friends, and all who shared a rope and a laugh with him.  If you or another climbing in your life have been impacted by the loss of a loved one in the mountains or in a climbing accident, you can get support. The AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund offers funding for climbers to seek therapy to start their journey through grief and loss.  Learn more about how to apply to get funding for therapy services, below. Or, access our directory of knowledgeable climbing and outdoor-sports-oriented therapists. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/10/15/a-tribute-to-balin-miller
  • Catherine Hawkins To Step Down As BMC Chair

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) today announces that Chair of the Board, Catherine Hawkins, will step down from her position in July 2025. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=782520
  • Mao Nakamura 🇯🇵 | Athlete of the Week

    Videos climbing ifsc
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWgLxoY-93E
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    climber-magazineC
    Top American boulder Katie Lamb has taken the top standard of women’s bouldering to Font 8C+ with the fourth ascent of The Dark Side in Yosemite. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/katie-lamb-makes-history-again-repeating-the-dark-side-font-8c-v16/
  • Alpine retreat anchors - Part 1

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig so you can do it under potential stress. Learn the principles here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/alpine-retreat-anchors-part-1
  • How to equalize crevasse rescue anchors

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    In crevasse rescue, you often build one anchor and transfer the load to it. Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2. Here are three methods to dial in this equalization. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/three-ways-to-equalize-crevasse-rescue-anchors
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    UK ClimbingU
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774078
  • In The Company of Friends by Ed Webster

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    “If this climb doesn’t blow you away, nothing will,” James ventured as he hit the brakes. “I still can’t believe that Earl and I did it.”   We hopped out of the Youth Challenge Bus and ambled over to the abrupt rim of a dark abyss at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River. Never… https://climbingzine.com/in-the-company-of-friends-by-ed-webster/