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‘What it’s Like to Climb with the Strongest Climber on Earth’

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  • Denali Rescue, 1979: The Untold Full Story

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we have climbing legends Jamie Logan, Jack Tackle, and Ken Currens on the podcast to retell the story of an accident and rescue on Denali from 1979. Jack Tackle and Ken Currens were climbing partners with a number of big mountains and first ascents under their belt, and in 1979, it was their first trip to the Alaska Range. They had decided to attempt the unclimbed southeast face of Denali (also known as Mount McKinely). This face would later become known as the Isis Face. In the middle of the climb, Ken, on lead, took a 250 ft fall when snow gave way beneath him. Once the rope came taught, he was hanging in mid air over a cliff, his femur badly broken. The rescue that followed is a story for the ages. We dive into the mechanics of the accident, what Jack Tackle had to do to get help, and how Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump—two of the most impressive alpinists of the time—were critical in helping save Ken. She and Mugs are especially known for the first ascent of the Emperor Face the year before, and though Mugs has passed, Jamie was able to fill us in on their experience of the rescue. In this episode, these climbing legends put together, in real time, the pieces of this story (that they all remember a tad bit differently)—47 years later. Learn More About Jack Tackle Learn More About Jamie Logan The First Ascent of the Emperor’s Face in the AAJ https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/3/5/denali-rescue-1979-the-untold-full-story
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    GrippedG
    Among the 1998 team were leading big wall free climbers Todd Skinner and Paul Piana. The result was a 31-pitch 5.12 that has seen several repeats The post Story of Americans Freeing War and Poetry on Greenland appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/story-of-americans-freeing-war-and-poetry-on-greenland/
  • Beginner climber? Start with your feet

    Videos climbing
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_G-gW-OrFx4
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ag5D7rWNOI
  • Yet Another Hard Flash for Adam Ondra

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    He recently flashed Imothep du Sol V14 in Fontainebleau, believing the problem to be V13 for him The post Yet Another Hard Flash for Adam Ondra appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/yet-another-hard-flash-for-adam-ondra/
  • A Surprisingly Flowy Flash of a Daniel Woods V14

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Nicolai Užnik's first go send of American Gangster V14 was near-flawless The post A Surprisingly Flowy Flash of a Daniel Woods V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/a-surprisingly-flowy-flash-of-a-daniel-woods-v14/
  • 1 Votes
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    RaykoR
    #climbing auto-belay devices tested, courtesy of HowNOT2.Amazed with that centrifugal brake design. It's really clever, simple and effective. Centrifugal clutches on motorbikes operate pretty much with the exact same principle using brake pad materials and rotation speed. I've always wondered how some of those auto-belay things worked internally.I also think that centrifugal design is more serviceable if needed.https://youtu.be/Z97RkAapbDE?si=awOOGQlh4jtaPY7z
  • Laura Rogora repeats Trofeo dell’Adriatico (F9a+)

    General News climbing
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    climber-magazineC
    Italian lead specialist Laura Rogora continues her sending spree with two more F9a+’s including a repeat of Gabri Moroni’s Trofeo dell’ Adriatico in Arco. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/laura-rogora-repeats-trofeo-dell-adriatico-f9a/