A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. (Warning: anchor nerds only.)
Premium Article available
https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/is-a-small-anchor-angle-better-maybe-not
She redpointed Solitary Souls 5.14c, a relatively new pumpy and powerful king line
The post Babsi Zangerl Sends an Arco 5.14c appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/babsi-zangerl-sends-an-arco-5-14c/
Sébastien Bouin has established the hardest route in China with the first ascent of El Gran Cabron (F9b).
https://www.climber.co.uk/news/seb-bouin-makes-first-ascent-of-china-s-hardest-sport-route-el-gran-cabron-f9b/
In this week's Friday Night Video, we follow Jacques Beaudoin as he seeks to make the first ascent of a thin 8b finger crack, Mother Earth, in Newnes Plateau, Australia.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=778224
It can search up to 80 metres and it has an "interference protection system" that means other electronic devices won't interfere with any signals
The post New Black Diamond Avalanche Beacon appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/gear/new-black-diamond-avalanche-beacon/
After today's tumultuous (and poorly set) lead semifinal, where numerous top names struggled, Friday's final will be a mix of favorites and upstarts.
https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/mens-sport-climbing-semifinal-results-paris-olympics/
Shortly after winning the Briançon Lead World Cup, Mei Kotake topped New Base Line V14
The post World Cup Champ Sends Her First V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/world-cup-champ-sends-her-first-v14/