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National Park Service Ends Bid to Ban Fixed Anchors in Wilderness Areas

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    climber-magazineC
    Austria's Jessica Pilz and Jakob Schubert became the latest Red Bull Dual Ascent champions in its third edition on Saturday as the Olympic climbing bronze medallists dominated Swiss duo Andre https://www.climber.co.uk/news/pilz-and-schubert-take-the-win-in-the-red-bull-dual-on-the-verzasca-dam/
  • 13.5 Things I Wish I Knew

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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_BS5jhQJEM
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
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    GrippedG
    Here's how and when to watch the Lead World Cup in Koper, Slovenia on Friday and Saturday The post Janja Is Back! Don’t Miss the World Cup This Weekend appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/janja-is-back-dont-miss-the-world-cup-this-weekend/
  • Practice anchors install (w/ pictures!)

    General Climbing
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    devnullD
    Okay, I did a thing. Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage. After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result. [image: 1724386660906-pxl_20240822_143020828-resized.jpg] [image: 1724386655118-pxl_20240822_194756349-resized.jpg] [image: 1724386621597-pxl_20240822_204026195.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1724387298601-pxl_20240823_021253567-resized.jpg] Some notes The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush. There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect! I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once! I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches. Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars): Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece) Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece) 1" spade bit ($8.98) 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece) 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece) Free/on-hand items: Scrap wood (2x4) Power drill and drill bits Adjustable wrench and socket wrench Deck screws Total: $32.96 CAD
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzexHtxxbP0
  • Calgary Has New Outdoor Granite Boulders

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    GrippedG
    They were installed in a famous park near downtown and they have dozens of problems to climb for free The post Calgary Has New Outdoor Granite Boulders appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/calgary-has-new-outdoor-granite-boulders/
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    IFSCI
    https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/news/olympic-qualifier-series-shanghai-2024-what-they-said