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I used mechanical advantage to break mechanical advantage

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13 Nov 2024, 16:00

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  • Sleepwalker Gets Another Ascent

    General News climbing 12 days ago
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    Jun Shibanuma is the latest top climber to complete the popular V15/16 in Red Rock The post Sleepwalker Gets Another Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/sleepwalker-gets-another-ascent/
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    A question for the TRS folks in the climbing community... This past Monday I went out and top rope solo'd for the first time. It was a nice experience and I learned a lot. I look forward to honing some of the practices (e.g. refixing strategy, bottom weight, etc.) One thing that I was not prepared for was a specific knot that Brent Barghahn teaches in his TRS video with Ryan Jenks from How NOT 2. He states that he refixes his rope to prevent rope abrasion (), and this can be done in a number of ways. He now prefers to tie a slipknot with a full twist (instead of a half-twist), instead of something that requires him to stop and untie, like an alpine butterfly. I attmepted to tie this knot a number of times in preparation (and on site), but it never looked right. I ended up using a butterfly. Later I rewatched the video and practiced the knot for a full half hour before I figured out exactly why it didn't look right. Can you figure it out? Here is the knot tied correctly, and then incorrectly. Can you spot which is which? [image: 1741924974063-pxl_20250313_143739970.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1741924980472-pxl_20250314_015542239-resized.jpg]
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    Eighteen years after establishing The Nose, Warren Harding completed one of his final routes—ordering his team to chop bolts and rivets as they climbed The post Yosemite’s Removed Big Wall: Steve Bosque Remembers the Porcelain Wall appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemites-removed-big-wall-steve-bosque-remembers-the-porcelain-wall/
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    So excited to announce that the OpenBeta mobile app for android is available to download on the google play store! A huge thanks to our many volunteers who worked on this important part of Our project We are still in beta testing mode looking for app feedback- provide any improvements via the play store or DM us! [image: 1737130053550-1000006940.png] [image: 1737130053758-1000006938.png] [image: 1737130053975-1000006937.png] [image: 1737130054088-1000006939.png]
  • 2 Votes
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    Norwegian climber Mari Augusta Salvesen has made the first female ascent of The Zone (E9 6c) at Curbar in the Peak District. First climbed by John Arran in 1998, the 15-metre blank and bold line to the left of the classic The Peapod (HVS 5b) has attracted only 10 ascents in 27 years and relies on skyhooks for protect... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777527
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    Outside and Bronco SUV prescribe America’s most adventure-starved workers with an outdoor experience like no other https://www.climbing.com/places/the-off-road-antidote/
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    Do you rock climb, and also use an Android device? Do you want to try an alpha to get some beta? (har har har) ... via the OpenBeta Discord... we're seeking Android users to test drive the upcoming alpha release of the OpenBeta mobile app: I'm planning on making an internal Alpha release this week. If you have an Android device and would like to be included in this, please DM me your email so I can opt you in. We need at least 20 alpha testers to be eligible for public release so I encourage everyone to test the Alpha build if they can! — Vichy79 If you're interested, simply DM Vichy79 on Discord, or reply here and I will pass on the message! In the meantime, here's a screenshot of what the image viewer looks like in-app. Pretty slick! [image: 1730741361200-screenshot_20241103-125507.png] You can also join our OpenBeta Discord here. P.S. Did you know we just did a volunteer spotlight on Vincent? Check it out!
  • 1 Votes
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    “Yes!”—“No!”—“Was it even any different?” https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/was-climbing-better-before-it-was-an-olympic-sport/