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Slow pulling a screamer

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  • Tales from Red Rock's Risk Mistress: Joanne Urioste

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Joanne Urioste is a powerhouse in Red Rocks climbing history, and we had her on the podcast to share stories from her recently published memoir, ā€œCollages of Rock & Desire.ā€ Her book is a detailed catalogue of the climbing legacy she shares with her husband George Urioste, including the creation of iconic multi pitch climbs like Epinephrine, Levitation 29, A Dream of Wild Turkeys, and many others. The book is also a detailed account of gear innovations and changing climbing ethics through the ā€˜70s and 80’s—from swami belts and belay plates, to early adoption of nuts and frontpointing on ice, and adding a run-out bolt here and there to connect discontinuous cracks and make many climbs possible on Red Rocks soaring faces. In the interview, we dive into all of this, plus Joanne and George’s wild love story, managing fear on lead, and climbing as a metaphor for life. You can find a copy of Joanne Urioste's book on Amazon. Buy Joanne Urioste’s Book Watch the Legacy Series Film about George and Joanne Urioste https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/1/22/tales-from-red-rocks-risk-mistress-joanne-urioste
  • Do This, Not That (Part 1)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, ā€œalpine equalizationā€ with cams, cautions on block leading, ā€œcastingā€ your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.) https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/do-this-not-that-part-1
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    climbingC
    Babsi Zangerl just became the first person to free climb a route on El Capitan on her first try, without a fall. Her ascent closes a 30-year chapter of attempts. https://www.climbing.com/news/history-of-el-capitan-flash-attempts/
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    GrippedG
    A new short just dropped featuring some epic Chatter Creek action The post ā€œThat Was the Craziest Thing I’ve Ever Seen on Skisā€ appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/that-was-the-craziest-thing-ive-ever-seen-on-skis/
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    climbingC
    Janja Garnbret is the best competition climber of all time—yet she says her coach, Roman Krajnik, is her secret weapon. We caught up with Krajnik to ask about that. https://www.climbing.com/people/why-janja-garnbret-says-her-coach-makes-winning-even-remotely-possible/
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    climbingC
    With a route name like ā€œSlammin’,ā€ perhaps this violent whipper isn’t so surprising. https://www.climbing.com/videos/watch-large-climbing-fall-gunks/
  • 0 Votes
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    179 Views
    climbingC
    OTG is ideal for boulderers and sport climbers with a performance-oriented mindset, particularly those who have an interest in combining training with nutrition. I was surprised to see numerical gains in my testing after just 4 weeks of training. https://www.climbing.com/skills/review-fultz-off-the-ground-training/
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    UK ClimbingU
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/press/the_north_face_climb_festival_mind_the_drop_-_london-15827