Skip to content

Babsi Zangerl makes sixth ascent of Magic Line (5.14c/F8c+), Yosemite

General News

1/1

4 Nov 2024, 21:00

Suggested topics


  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    16 Views
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFVGP9CwZUc
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    24 Views
    Skeleton Ridge is a highly sought prize for adventure climbers, taking an impressive and unlikely line on chalk that's 'unconventional' at best. In recent years access has been banned, but after lengthy negotiation involving the BMC and its volunteers the route is once again available to climb - providing you have the necessary skills and abi... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=782068
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    28 Views
    Herson completed the notoriously difficult Mason Earle line in just two days of effort The post One Shoe On, One Shoe Off – Connor Herson Sending Stranger Than Fiction 5.14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/one-shoe-on-one-shoe-off-connor-herson-sending-stranger-than-fiction-5-14/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    56 Views
    Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-avoid-edge-loading-carabiners
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    47 Views
    Her first ascent of Supertussi Low V14 is her hardest send of the year The post Jana Švecová FAs a V14 and repeats a V13/14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jana-svecova-fas-a-v14-and-repeats-a-v13-14/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    45 Views
    Hannah Morris Bouldering is a great #climbing channel on YouTube. What I like that the host is a normal person, rather than an Olympic level superstar or anything. Each episode she talks to coaches and mentors that are always useful.In this episode she talks to Lynn Hill, a truly inspiring woman who was the first to free climb* The Nose on El Capitain in Yosemite, a feat that was thought impossible, and not repeated by anyone for over a decade. It has only seen a handful of ascents since.Even if you're not planning a big wall climbing career it's a great story, and it's criminal that Lynn Hill is not a household name, unlike some of the blokes who followed her. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE*(free climbing means climbing without using aid devices, but with rope and fall protection, as opposed to free soloing where you have no fall protection because you're a dick).
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    43 Views
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774051
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    64 Views
    We are deeply saddened by the loss of the incredible climber, mountaineer, inventor, writer, and historian of climbing gear John Middendorf. John (nicknamed the "Deuce") was a true friend to the American Alpine Club, and his insatiable curiosity and kindness made an impression on everyone he met.  Although his contributions to climbing are many, some in particular changed the sport forever. John’s ascent of the East Face of Great Trango Tower in 1992 with Xaver Bongard epitomized his elite climbing skill—The Grand Voyage was a performance of a lifetime on one of the biggest and remotest big walls in the world, and was one of the first Grade VII climbs. John also put up new Grade VI routes on Half Dome and El Cap, along with many first ascents in Zion National Park. He was otherwise a prolific contributor to the American Alpine Journal with exploratory climbs all across the world. John, an engineer and inventor, started a hardware company, A5 Adventures, in 1986. His innovations in portaledge design, as well as Birdbeak pitons, aiders, haul bags, and other gear, unequivocally changed the big-wall game. He sold A5 to The North Face in 1997. His 1994 book Big Walls, co-authored with John Long, was the crucial reference for many wall-climbing novices. But besides being a great man in climbing, he also was a dear friend of the AAC. We deeply appreciate the generosity and knowledge he shared with the Club, his support of the AAC Library, and his contributions to the Legacy Series and the 2023 Cutting Edge Grant.  The AAC’s Library Director, Katie Sauter, reflected: “[John’s] insatiable curiosity led him to research so many avenues of climbing, often sending me questions about the most obscure references. He was very knowledgeable and wrote blog posts about a wide variety of topics pertaining to climbing history and the evolution of gear. He was generous with his time, and when he was visiting, he'd identify historic climbing gear for our collections. His enthusiasm was infectious. He was so interested in how gear was made that he even wanted to test the composition of some of our historic pitons to see what kind of metal was used.” The AAC will truly miss John Middendorf, and our thoughts are with his wife, Jeni, his children, and his other family and friends as they grieve and celebrate him. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/25/remembering-john-middendorf