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The Suffer Bivy Is Real, Climbers Be Prepared

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6 Jun 2024, 04:31

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    Alexander Huber, Simon Gietl and Dani Arnold completed a first ascent on the east face of Jirishanca in Peru, which is said to be one of the most striking and steepest walls in the Andes. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/gietl-huber-and-arnold-open-a-new-route-on-the-east-face-of-jirishanca-in-peru/
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    Nearly 1,000 climbers attempted North America's tallest peak this winter, with about 35 per cent reaching the summit The post Denali Climbing Season Concludes for 2025 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/denali-climbing-season-concludes-for-2025/
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    After a lacklustre start to the season, Toby Roberts has taken gold at Innsbruck The post Olympic Champion Wins World Cup appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/olympic-champion-wins-world-cup/
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    Award-winning writer Katie Ives talks about finding a voice through climbing and writing The post Strange Places, a Story by Author Katie Ives appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/uncategorized/strange-places-a-story-by-author-katie-ives/
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    Austrian Babsi Zangerl has made the first-ever flash ascent of a route on Yosemite's El Capitan, climbingFreerider 5.13a via the Boulder Problemin a three-day push with no falls. Her ascent comes just a few weeks after she repeated one of Yosemite's hardest single-pitch trad routes, Magic Line 8c+ at Vernal Falls. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=776691
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    It's the up-and-coming comp climbing star's second of the grade at the Red River Gorge The post Team USA’s Annie Sanders Climbs Pure Imagination 5.14c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/team-usas-annie-sanders-climbs-pure-imagination-5-14c/
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    Michael Gardner 1991-2024 We are deeply saddened by the death of Michael Gardner: a great alpinist and a vibrant life.  Michael was on an expedition funded by the AAC’s Cutting Edge Grant, attempting the unclimbed north face of Jannu East in Nepal with his long time climbing partner Sam Hennessey, when he fell to his death on October 7th, 2024. We are grateful that Hennessey is safe after the incident.  There have been so many tributes to Mike in the last few days that attest to his incredible empathy, enthusiasm, dedication to the craft of climbing, pure motivations and lack of ego. Indeed, his quiet pursuit of the mountains on his own terms means his legacy is not flashy, but found in traces and in the background—he was climbing and skiing for the sake of the craft, not for recognition. Yet he was repeatedly the preferred partner for Cutting Edge Grant recipients like Hennessey, and his name appeared again and again in the American Alpine Journal over the last few years, for his new routes, fast ascents of iconic faces, and creative ski alpinism. Rather than listing his great ascents here, and reducing him to a list of accomplishments, we encourage all who knew him, all who were inspired by him, to dive into the AAJ stories that feature him—as a way to walk, for a brief moment, alongside him in the memories of some of his greatest life experiences in the mountains. The mountains called him back again and again, whether it was to put up a new rock route on Mt. Owens, Renny Take the Wheel (1,500’, 8 pitches, IV 5.11), or envision the first ascent of Hot Cars and Fast Women (850m, M6+) with Hennessey on Denali’s Ridge of No Return. Mike and Sam were also simply fast. Their second ascent of Light Traveler (M7) on the southwest face of Denali in 2018 was not only the fastest for this route at the time, but for any of the four routes generally considered to be most difficult on Denali’s south and southwest faces: the Denali Diamond, McCartney-Roberts, Light Traveler, and Slovak Direct. In 2022, they upped the ante when they joined up with Rob Smith to climb the Slovak Direct in 17 hours and 10 min. In next year’s 2025 AAJ, his more recent mountain adventures will live on, testifying to the kind of life he shaped for himself, including a new route on Mt. Hunter, a massive ski link-up in the Tetons, and a new route on the Grand Teton.  Reading through these stories, you can see the creativity and quiet passion he brought to his climbing, and to his life.  Describing his conflicted relationship to the mountains in an article for Alpinist in 2022, Mike writes how, when he climbs: “An indescribable awareness of place and peace takes hold. On the other hand, there are consequences to devoting yourself to the mountains. I know them intimately, and yet year after year, death after death, I continue to climb.” We can’t know if Mike would have thought it was all worth it. All we can do is honor the incredible void his death has left behind.  Our thoughts are with Michael’s family and climbing partners. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/10/18/a-tribute-to-michael-gardner
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    Butterfly Circus in Switzerland is said to be one of the best trad routes in the country The post Strong Climbers Are Loving This 5.13d Crack appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/strong-climbers-are-loving-this-5-13d-crack/