Skip to content

Does gate direction matter on a hanger? (more practice board faffery)

General Climbing
1 1 155 1
  • Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste.

    We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself?

    I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection!

    This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought.

    All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case.

    PXL_20240916_011132217.jpg

    PXL_20240916_011143499.jpg

    PXL_20240916_011243263.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg

Suggested topics


  • 0 Votes
    2 Posts
    111 Views
    jay_climbsJ
    This is a really unexpected flash! I'd seen a few people struggle, especially on the top section (the one I end up campusing). I almost swung off right before that fun 360 (I didn't really need to do that, but was easier than to wait to wind back the other way)#bouldering #climbing #bloc #escalade #totem #totem_meyrin
  • How strong is it? GEAR (Part 1)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    86 Views
    AlpineSavvyA
    Part of a continuing series of looking at strength of anchors, gear, and knots. How strong is a belay loop? How about a rope after you stomp on it with a crampon? Can I trust that rappel anchor made with old, sun bleached webbing? Learn the answers to these and more. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-strong-is-it-gear-part-1
  • New Video of 12-Year-Old Climbing 5.14d

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    107 Views
    GrippedG
    Leo Cea recently ticked his fourth 5.14d with Trip Tic Tonik The post New Video of 12-Year-Old Climbing 5.14d appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-video-of-12-year-old-climbing-5-14d/
  • Outdoor Alliance: Roping Up For Recreation Advocacy

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    110 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode of the podcast, we are celebrating the recipient of the AAC’s 2025 David Brower Conservation Award: Outdoor Alliance. Outdoor Alliance is the only organization in the U.S. that unites the voices of outdoor enthusiasts to conserve public lands and waters. OA advocates and amplifies the voices of recreationists to help ensure those lands are managed in a way that embraces the human-powered experience. Over the last 10 years, Outdoor Alliance has been instrumental in helping pass the EXPLORE Act in 2024, and they are receiving the Brower award for their work on passing this instrumental recreation bill. Dive in to the episode to hear about the origins of Outdoor Alliance and the power behind their methods and perspectives, featuring Outdoor Alliance CEO Adam Cramer, and the AAC’s Policy Director Byron Harvison. Learn More About Outdoor Alliance Take Action with Outdoor Alliance Learn About the OA Member Organizations https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/7/31/outdoor-alliance-roping-up-for-recreation-advocacy
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    130 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    I’d been driving past this rock, near Hanksville, for years. It’s just begging to be climbed but looked impossible without drilling a ladder of large holes for spikes (rebar? footing stakes?) of some kind. And what kind of fun is that? The “rock” appeared to be too soft to nail, too crumbly to bolt. There… https://climbingzine.com/sugar-daddy-photo-essay-choss-steve-crusher-bartlett/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    127 Views
    Access FundA
    Access Fund was founded in 1991 to protect America’s climbing. We’ve made so much progress on that front—from passing bills in Congress to buying threatened climbing areas to building sustainable trails—but our work is not done. In fact, it’s just as important as ever. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/big-news-black-diamond-is-matching-all-donations-to-protect-americas-climbing
  • The Easiest Thing Climbers Can Do For Our Future

    General News climbing
    1
    1 Votes
    1 Posts
    152 Views
    climbingC
    Mountains are coming apart and glaciers are retreating. But we are not powerless. https://www.climbing.com/places/climbers-need-to-vote/
  • Going It Alone by Vic Zeilman

    General News climbing climbingzine
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    131 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    https://climbingzine.com/going-alone-vic-zeilman/