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“Psychological” New 5.12 on Remote Greenland Big Wall

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    On a bouldering trip to South Africa in July, the Austrian climber sent two V15s, one V14, seven V13s and eight V12s The post Nicolai Užnik’s Sending Spree in Rocklands appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/nicolai-uzniks-sending-spree-in-rocklands/
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  • Friend or foe?

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  • Guidebook XII—Rewind the Climb

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    By Hannah Provost If you had to tell the story of the evolution of climbing within the history of one route, your most compelling choices might be The Nose of El Capitan or The Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon. In this way, The Naked Edge is a time capsule containing within its memory: the much dreamed-of first ascent finally climbed by Layton Kor, Bob Culp, and Rick Horn; a period defining free ascent by Jim Erickson and Duncan Furgeson in the early 1970s; and one of the few battle- grounds for speed records in the United States. In 1962, Kor and Bob Culp were diverted attempting to aid the steep final edge, and today, climbers have speed climbed the route, bridge to bridge, in a little over 22 minutes. What is it about this climb that has allowed it to be the sketchbook for climbing legends to draw out the evolution of our sport? Anecdotes and artifacts from the American Alpine Club Library and archives provided the answer. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/11/25/guidebook-xiirewind-the-climb
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