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Boardman Tasker Book Award 2024 Shortlist

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  • Jonathan Siegrist Climbs New 5.15a in Nevada

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Eazy Street climbs a steep line at Mount Charleston near Las Vegas The post Jonathan Siegrist Climbs New 5.15a in Nevada appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jonathan-siegrist-climbs-new-5-15a-in-nevada/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/appeal-launched-after-federal-judge-greenlights-oak-flat-land-exchange
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    climber-magazineC
    Janja Garnbret took the IFSC World Cup Lead gold and the Innsbruck double (again) whilst both Toby Roberts and Erin McNeice podiumed with silver and bronze respectively. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/garnbret-takes-innsbruck-world-cup-lead-gold-gbs-roberts-and-mcneice-podium/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/just-in-judge-blocks-oak-flat-land-exchange-while-lawsuit-proceeds
  • Alpinist Solos 1,000-foot New Granite Line

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Simon Gietl has added another impressive first ascent to his resume of technical climbs The post Alpinist Solos 1,000-foot New Granite Line appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alpinist-solos-1000-foot-new-granite-line/
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    ClimbingZineC
    We are 234 subscribers away from reaching our goal for our “Keep The Zine Alive” campaign. Subscribe here, Volume 25 is in the final stages of editing and goes to the printer later this month. https://shop.climbingzine.com/ https://climbingzine.com/keep-the-zine-alive-we-need-234-more-subscribers-to-meet-our-goal/
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Climbers do V8, E8, 8a, D8 and 8 Peaks in a Day

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Anak Verhoeven and Neil Gresham spent less than 24 hours linking some test-piece climbs The post Climbers do V8, E8, 8a, D8 and 8 Peaks in a Day appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climbers-do-v8-e8-8a-d8-and-8-peaks-in-a-day/