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General Climbing

Discussion about general climbing topics. A great place to talk about gear, technique, and the climbing community!

This category can be followed from the open social web via the handle general@community.openbeta.io

88 Topics 231 Posts
  • 0 Votes
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    Onsight 12a lead, two onsight 12b top ropes, and got my 12d top rope project down to one take this morning. I’m feeling so good about my #climbing lately.
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    I top roped with the Petzl 8003 full body harness today and it worked great! Would recommend for folks who want to continue #climbing while pregnant(And yes, this is apparently my announcement to the void about being pregnant. The internet says my baby will be banana sized next week)
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    I've now linked the start and end of this v5 (indoor) problem Ive been working on for the past week and it's so hard to give myself the proper rest between attempts. I'm even setting timers... And then constantly looking at the timer cause I'm itching to get back on and send it. Now pacing back and forth in the gym like a crazy person. #bouldering #boulderingproblems #climbing
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    Following #plants in the crags: MIREN rock face survey https://the3dlab.org/2024/01/23/following-plants-in-the-crags-miren-rock-face-survey/"cliff #vegetation, and the influence of rock #climbing on it, is pretty unique: rock faces often cover strong microclimatic gradients, resulting in a unique vegetation of species at either the warm or cool edge of their distribution. This unique vegetation often consists of (locally) rare species with very patchy distribution"
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    For you climbing nerds my photographer daughter just launched her web site... Nothing fancy, just some photos for now.️ http://maddyprodoehlphoto.com/#climbing #photography
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    Flashed another 5.12a this morning. I think my default assumption is now an onsight on a 12a, which was absolutely not the case a few months ago. This feels great and I’m really proud of my progress. I took a big step back in the last few years (gym closures, belay partners leaving etc) so it feels great to be back. #climbing
  • Climbing guides in Oahu, HI

    hawaii climbing amga 14 Dec 2024, 02:11
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    Wondering if anyone has suggestions on climbing guides in Oahu, Hawaii. Looking to take a trip there with the wife (sans kids!) and hoping to try a multi pitch or two on volcanic rock! (Typical beta for this would be to hit up a local group on Facebook but bleeeeecchhh, only if I absolutely have to...)
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    #climbing auto-belay devices tested, courtesy of HowNOT2.Amazed with that centrifugal brake design. It's really clever, simple and effective. Centrifugal clutches on motorbikes operate pretty much with the exact same principle using brake pad materials and rotation speed. I've always wondered how some of those auto-belay things worked internally.I also think that centrifugal design is more serviceable if needed.https://youtu.be/Z97RkAapbDE?si=awOOGQlh4jtaPY7z
  • #Karstmas day 9

    karstmas 10 Dec 2024, 03:57
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    #Karstmas day 9Settle in for a technical post about Single Rope Technique! I already talked about the most widely known, and perhaps widely used systems worldwide: the Frog system.Today the subject is *my own invention* of a climbing system, to suit the needs of those with, erm, "chests". As a bonus, it also solves a lot of back pain problems so I've noticed over the decade-plus of showing people this option that many others have adapted it as well (including my own partner!).Where I live and cave a lot, there are deep pits, as you may have figured out. In addition, these pits are well suited to one long rope without rebelays or deviations (sometimes called "alpine style SRT"), since pits here bell out from the top edge meaning quickly you are far from a wall. There's no point in chasing the wall and putting in rebelays, you don't want the rope to touch it anyway! [Some international cavers like to tease cavers here saying we don't SRT, we "IRT" - Indestructible Rope Technique - because of how we just "rig, throw, n go"! But really, our rope just usually doesn't have a chance to touch the rock in the firstplace! ]Why is that important to know? Well, this means that different techniques are developed to make it easier to climb such long stretches in freehanging space. Many systems were invented over the years but the three that stuck around are:1) Mitchell2) Single Bungee Ropewalker3) Double Bungee RopewalkerRopewalkers work as they sound...you literally just take little steps and walk your way right up the rope. You only sit to rest, and many people can "run" up the rope as quickly as they can rappel! We're ignoring poor Mitchell for now, it has a small but fervent user base...smaller that I've converted some diehards to my invented system...Bungee and a Half Ropewalker!I invented the Bungee and a Half Ropewalker back in 2012. As I did longer and longer climbs, I learned by 400 feet my ankle was hurting from how a Single Bungee Ropewalker twist it, getting worse under more rope weight as you get higher. Sadly, Double Bungee Ropewalker was not for me either, as it pulled the chestroller plate over my, erm, "chest" meaning I could not breathe under the pressure. Not to mention the painfulness of it! So I combined elements of both, alleviating both of each system's issues, with my creation, the Bungee and a Half Ropewalker. It was somewhat based on a system Miriam Cuddington had played with (if the last name is familiar, yes, wife of "Vertical Bill" Cuddington who I've mentioned before). One of the really neat things about this system I invented is not only does it have the speed and smoothness of a ropewalker for long climbs, it also has flexibility of use. Because unlike the other ropewalkers, each ascender is easy to use individually, which allows it to excel at "alpine style SRT" as well. It handles rebelays and deviations as smoothly as a frog system can. In the end, all joking aside about preferred systems and techniques, the gear you train with, the system you know inside and out, that's the one that will get you up the rope safely. If you've studied it well, you can handle the obstacles with ease.If you'd like to see a video of how this system works, here is a quick two minute video! https://youtu.be/o57-c_zIkT8#cave #caves #caving #karst #pit #geology #waterfall #adventure #nature #photography #summer #climbing
  • #Karstmas day 7

    karstmas cave caves caving safety 8 Dec 2024, 04:44
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    #Karstmas day 7Sorry for the delay folks, today was quite busy with a callout with the K9 SAR team. Happy ending!So this prompted me to write a bit about safety in caving today, in particular with vertical caves (pits). This is quite the famous pit in Alabama, it's on like every top 5 list to visit (best views, best hikes, best waterfalls, best cave...every clickbait list this cave is on). What is unique about it, is that there is a horizontal walk-in entrance as well, where you can get to this view. This is both good...and bad.When I started caving many moons ago, this cave was privately owned. So only cavers knew about it, and got permission by directly asking to go. Now, it is owned by a cave conservancy, and is much more open to visitation, just requiring a permit which is free and easy to fill out online. This is good - it lets lots of people enjoy this amazing view you think you'd have to travel far away to see. This is also bad - despite having to check off many things when you get the permit, no one *actually reads*, and as a result...well.See that nice round rock middle bottom? We all call that "The Pedestal". You can climb the rock down to it, the slippery wet rock over a 40+ foot drop. You aren't supposed to free-climb here, but *everyone* does for their Instagram photo. I'll make this simple: Never be closer than 6 feet (2 meters) from an edge without being tied in to a safety line. If the edge is sloped to the drop-off, that edge starts at the *top of the slope* where if you fell, you could keep rolling. Great rule of thumb for any edge, whether cliff or cave.In this case, once you are on the Pedestal, you're okay on a section of it. But if you are climbing the rock up to the right, or wanting to go further down, you need to be tied in. People also like to stand at the pit entrance and lean over to look - there's a small tree on the steep slope they hold onto to do so. Yikes!Guess who has personally been on the team, not once, but TWICE, that has bagged & pulled bodies out of this pit? Yeah. Coroners do not rappel into caves, cave rescue takes the body bag in, documents & photographs, and pull it back out. So, be safe please, around edges. Don't turn yourself into chunky jelly. It's not worth the photo. Now this place has a bunch of signs, but, people do stupid shit they aren't supposed to anyway. So I don't go anymore. Not because of the bodies - I have medical background and am not phased doing that stuff - but because I don't want to *watch* people be stupid. It gives me too much anxiety, and ruins my day. Shame, as it really is gorgeous and it used to be an annual summer trip.So. Be smart. Be safe. Pick living to see more wonderful things over a single moment's photo.#cave #caves #caving #safety #rescue #recovery #geology #karst #cliff #climbing
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    Wonder if it's worth asking for #bouldering or #climbing #beta on Mastodon? How do I get my toe onto the chip below the sloper? The top hold is sloper on top, a flat crimp/undercling underneath. The chip is the same shape but angled to the right...Beta please?
  • Well, yes.

    climbing climbingwall 7 Dec 2024, 08:46
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    Well, yes. As a young, fixated climber that’s where I met my wife.Thirty years ago - this is nothing new! Climbers don’t really *do* anything else, do they?https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cj4vre2j4qqo#climbing #climbingwall
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    There plenty of reasons why you should never date a rock climber; but, after a lot of thinking, Matt Samet has finally managed to identify 10 reasons why it's not the worst idea ever. https://www.climbing.com/people/10-reasons-why-you-should-only-date-climbers/
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    Items found in search for three missing climbers on New Zealand's highest peak#Tributes #SearchAndRescue #FoundItems #Climbing #MountEveresthttps://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/australasia/aoraki-mount-cook-missing-climbers-b2657920.html
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    Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven released a video of her #climbing La Planta de Shiva in Spain. It's a 9b route, the hardest grade climbed by women so far. She's the fourth woman to climb 9b.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooE3iRuT1mY
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    watching this was a definite upper:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKPN-6DZHnAamity warme and brent barghahn freeing pineapple express.#climbing
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    Anyone up for a climbing session in Chiang Mai? 🧗‍️ Indoors or outdoors#ChiangMai #thailand #climbing
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    Just test-drove the topo editor that @bohwaz@mamot.fr fixed up, and it's working great, nice work!! Scaling is a bit off; I had to scale up pretty much everything (lines, marks, text) by 200-300%, but that's due to images being so huge nowadays. Looking forward to updating my photos of The Crag Next Door with proper topos! [image: 1730914274412-dilligaf.png]
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    Just "fixed" the BetaCreator software used to create rock climbing topo images, now working on modern web browsers, here: https://bohwaz.github.io/betacreator/#rockclimbing #climbing #betacreator
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    The #Climbing Skill tree is now up! Just color in the boxes of anything you've already done to visualise your progress, identify skill gaps and get inspired to try new things. Full repository here: https://github.com/sjpiper145/MakerSkillTree