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Climbing News from assorted publications

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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we sit down with legend Jack Tackle to discuss all things cutting edge. We begin by diving into the many first ascents of Jack’s own alpinism career, his progress as a climber, and his deep history with the AAC. We cover the evolution of adventure grants in climbing, how the AAC’s Cutting Edge Grant got started, and why it’s the premiere climbing grant in today’s climbing scene. We also cover the last few years of successes that have come out of Cutting Edge Grant expeditions, a behind the scenes look at some of the considerations these alpinists face when pursuing such high-end objectives, and how Jack’s experience can shed light on the significance of these ascents. Plus, we cover some of the other AAC grants and how they meet the needs of climbers at all levels.  We don’t cover the exact details of the expedition planning process, or how important it is for these expeditions to be respectful and cognizant of both local cultures and environmental issues, or what happens when things go disastrously wrong. That’s for another episode! If you love following the cutting edge of climbing, or are considering applying to the Cutting Edge Grant yourself this year, or want to soak up Jack’s wisdom, this dive into the history and present of adventure grants is a fascinating look at the logistics it takes to pursue the cutting edge!  You still have time to apply to the 2024 Cutting Edge Grant, presented by Black Diamond! Apply before midnight on Dec 31, 2024. Apply to the Cutting Edge Grant Learn More About Jack Tackle’s Legendary Alpine Climbing Career Apply to Other AAC Grants https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/12/23/climb-behind-the-scenes-of-the-cutting-edge-grant-with-jack-tackle
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    climber-magazineC
    Chris Sharma has added yet another stellar Deep Water Soloing first ascent on Mallorca, Vision Quest (F9a). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/chris-sharma-makes-first-ascent-of-vision-quest-another-f9a-mallorca-dws/
  • Five Crazy Chris Sharma Deep Water Solos

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    GrippedG
    He recently made the first ascent of a new 5.14d called Vision Quest, watch him on his most legendary ones below The post Five Crazy Chris Sharma Deep Water Solos appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/five-crazy-chris-sharma-deep-water-solos/
  • Adam Shahar Gives Sleepwalker a V15 Grade

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    GrippedG
    Originally graded V16, the most recent repeats say it's soft V16 or V15 The post Adam Shahar Gives Sleepwalker a V15 Grade appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-shahar-gives-sleepwalker-a-v15-grade/
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    climber-magazineC
    Chris Sharma has just added yet another stellar DWS first ascent on Mallorca, Vison Quest (F9a). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/chris-sharma-get-first-ascent-of-vision-quest-another-f9a-mallorca-dws/
  • Trump Wants to Rename Alaska’s Denali Back to Mount McKinley

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    GrippedG
    President Barack Obama had changed it to Denali in 2015 The post Trump Wants to Rename Alaska’s Denali Back to Mount McKinley appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/trump-wants-to-rename-alaskas-denali-back-to-mount-mckinley/
  • La Rambla 5.15a for Taisei Homma

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    GrippedG
    It's the Team Japan climber's hardest outdoor sport route to date The post La Rambla 5.15a for Taisei Homma appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/la-rambla-5-15a-for-taisei-homma/
  • Popular Canmore Crag Cougar Creek Reopens

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    GrippedG
    One of Canada's busiest rock climbing canyons is open again, and yes there's even a fun ice climb up there The post Popular Canmore Crag Cougar Creek Reopens appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/popular-canmore-crag-cougar-creek-reopens/
  • Winners of a 2024 Climb Award for Women

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    GrippedG
    Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev climbed a new route over five days this summer in the Indian Himalaya The post Winners of a 2024 Climb Award for Women appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/winners-of-a-2024-climb-award-for-women/
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    climbingC
    The French superstar snags first ascent of ‘Wolf Kingdom,’ suggesting it’s on the harder end of 5.15c/9b+ https://www.climbing.com/news/seb-bouin-wolf-kingdom/
  • Outdoor Groups Support a New Welsh National Park

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    UK ClimbingU
    Outdoor and environmental groups have welcomed the Welsh Government's proposal to establish a new National Park in north-east Wales, but would like aspects of the plan to go further. A consultation on the park, which centres on the Clwydian Hil... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777288
  • A Marriage On The Rocks by Barbara Noseworthy

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    ClimbingZineC
    It’s 1981, and I’m 22 years old, about to graduate from college, trying to sort out what happens next. And there’s this guy I really like. He’s good looking, smart, funny, and a rock climber. I confess, I had this thing for rock climbers, especially those with large biceps. by Barbara Noseworthy, published in Volume… https://climbingzine.com/marriage-rocks-barbara-noseworthy/
  • Chris Sharma Establishes New 5.14d Deep Water Solo

    climbing
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    GrippedG
    He adds Vision Quest to his long list of hard Mallorca DWS first ascents The post Chris Sharma Establishes New 5.14d Deep Water Solo appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/chris-sharma-establishes-new-5-14d-deep-water-solo/
  • Will Gadd: Keeping your hands & feet warm, Part 3

    climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-feet-warm-part-3
  • USA Wilderness Climbing Protected by Law

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    climber-magazineC
    The Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act (PARC) just passed Congress. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/usa-wilderness-climbing-protected-by-law/
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    climbingC
    For the second week in a row, this climber is lucky to be uninjured. https://www.climbing.com/videos/climber-grabs-quickdraw-takes-big-fall/
  • For the Love of it - A Climbing Story featuring Jim Pope

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    UK ClimbingU
    In this week's Friday Night Video, Wedge Climbing follow Jim Pope; a climber who loves a bit of every discipline. This film follows some of his adventures from the last year and gives a little glimpse into his mindset. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777269
  • EXPLORE Act Passes and NPS Discontinues Fixed Anchor Proposal

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    American Alpine ClubA
    It has been a momentous week for climbing policy, and we want to thank all of you who shared your voices with your legislators on these matters. The EXPLORE Act, which the AAC and its partners have been working on in some form or another for nearly 10 years, passed with unanimous consent, and is awaiting a presidential signature as we speak. Secondly, the National Park Service announced late Wednesday afternoon (December 18th) that they were discontinuing the development of their proposed fixed anchor guidance. What does this mean for climbers? The EXPLORE Act: The EXPLORE Act, introduced by Rep Bruce Westerman (R-AR) and Rep Raul Grijalva (D-AZ), is a historic recreation package that has had widespread bipartisan support and support from outdoor recreationists of all stripes—including climbers, mountain bikers, hunters, anglers, and more.  The most important elements of the EXPLORE Act for climbers are two-fold.  First, EXPLORE includes the Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act, introduced by Rep. Joe Neguse (D-CO) and Rep John Curtis (R-UT). The PARC Act is intended to ensure safe and sustainable access to rock climbing in designated Wilderness areas. It requires federal agencies to recognize recreational climbing as an appropriate activity in accordance with the Wilderness Act of 1964, as well as recognizing that the placement, use, and maintenance of fixed anchors is appropriate. The act also ensures that a public comment period is made available prior to any final climbing management guidance being issued. Essentially, the PARC Act officially recognizes that the use of fixed anchors for climbing (and Search and Rescue operations) continues to be appropriate in Wilderness areas, provided it does not diminish the wilderness character of the area. Second, EXPLORE includes the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation Act (SOAR Act), which will increase accessibility to the outdoors by improving recreational permitting for outfitters and guides. How? By: Additional elements of the EXPLORE Act include improving access to parks and public lands for veterans and people with disabilities by building additional accessible trails; the BOLT Act, which will create more long-distance biking trails; and the codification of FICOR and the Outdoor Recreation Legacy Partnership, which funds local parks and green spaces, and provides direct access to funding for tribes for developing green spaces. AAC Executive Director Ben Gabriel synthesized this win, saying: “It has been such a privilege to work with all the outdoor recreation organizations, and legislators from both chambers and parties, to see the EXPLORE Act through. This historic recreation package will broadly serve the public, protect recreation resources, and provide for our gateway communities.” As you might imagine, the AAC is thrilled with what this all means for public lands and accessibility to climbing across the United States! This win would not be possible without the combined efforts of our incredible partners, especially Outdoor Alliance, Access Fund, AMGA, and The Mountaineers. Fixed Anchor Policy: The National Park Service announced on December 18th that they were discontinuing the development of their proposed fixed anchor guidance. The update said that, "Park leaders will continue to manage climbing activities in Wilderness on a park-by-park basis consistent with applicable law and policy, including the Wilderness Act." This announcement comes nearly a year after Park officials sought public comment on proposed regulations which suggested a new interpretation of installations as defined in the Wilderness Act. This new interpretation, which could have prohibited fixed anchors in Wilderness, was met with significant concern from climbers, climbing organizations, and other recreation enthusiasts, as well as search and rescue professionals, throughout the country.   The AAC thanks the NPS for sensing the need to reevaluate the proposed regulations and looks forward to collaborating with them in the future on fixed anchor guidance. The AAC, Access Fund, Mountaineers, and many other organizations, worked tirelessly to educate lawmakers on the potential impacts of prohibiting fixed anchors, which resulted in 14 Senators reaching out to the Secretaries of the Department of I... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/12/19/xqb6m95tn7yzrj9c0gjad322vzx4zx
  • 5 Best YouTube Channels for Beginner Boulderers

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    climbingC
    Brand new or just looking to improve, here are some good places to start. https://www.climbing.com/skills/bouldering/5-best-youtube-channels-for-beginner-boulderers/
  • 10 Tips for Cold Weather Sport Climbing

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    GrippedG
    Take advantage of that perfect cold temperature friction with these tactics The post 10 Tips for Cold Weather Sport Climbing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/10-tips-for-cold-weather-sport-climbing/