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Hyunbin Min makes history with a single-session V16 ascent of Ryuichi's Murai's United
The post Korean Climber Sends V16 in a Session appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Korean Climber Sends V16 in a Session - Gripped Magazine

Hyunbin Min makes history with a single-session V16 ascent of Ryuichi's Murai's United

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Motherhood, guiding, her own counseling practiceprofessional climber Julia Niles has danced between responsibilities for years. Lured by her friend, professional climber Em Pellerin, to go climb the big walls of Cocham Valley, Chile, Julia relearns what it means to thrive. High off the deck, tied together, every action becomes a powerful re...

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Ellis Brigham will open a new store in Keswick this summer

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V16 climber Pietro Vidi has repeated the 19-pitch 5.13c a quarter of a century after Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden made the first free ascent
The post Lurking Fear on El Cap Freed After 25 Years appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Lurking Fear on El Cap Freed After 25 Years - Gripped Magazine

V16 climber Pietro Vidi has repeated the 19-pitch 5.13c a quarter of a century after Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden made the first free ascent

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

The Alpine Club of Canada Squamish section has released a topo and details for The Grotto
The post New Crag in Squamish for 5.10 Climbers appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

New Crag in Squamish for 5.10 Climbers - Gripped Magazine

The Alpine Club of Canada Squamish section has released a topo and details for The Grotto

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Bosi has climbed several problems from V14 and up over the past few weeks
The post Will Bosi Climbs New V15 in Switzerland appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Will Bosi Climbs New V15 in Switzerland - Gripped Magazine

Bosi has climbed several problems from V14 and up over the past few weeks

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

During a recent trip to the UK, we caught up with none other than Adam Ondra to discuss his past, present and future. We touch upon his early days when he climbed 9a at age 13, his reflections on his unrepeated route Silence (9c), his emotions after his Olympic experience, and what makes him so special.

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David Fitzgerald has made the first ascent of the low start to Randy Puro's classic Yosemite testpiece, The Shield, 8A/V11. He has named the low start Last Line of Defense, and has proposed a grade of 8C+/V16.

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Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up.

Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 4) — Alpinesavvy

Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

A few weeks ago, David Fitzgerald made the first ascent of Last Line of Defense V16
The post Yosemite Gets a New Hardest Boulder appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Yosemite Gets a New Hardest Boulder - Gripped Magazine

A few weeks ago, David Fitzgerald made the first ascent of Last Line of Defense V16

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag.

On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall.
Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.”
Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future.
There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.”
With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.”
For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms.
A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs.
The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag.
For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips:

(Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.)

The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall — American Alpine Club

Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag.

American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)

She would go on to become the first woman to climb the Seven Summits
The post 50 Years Ago, Junko Tabei Became First Woman to Climb Everest appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

50 Years Ago, Junko Tabei Became First Woman to Climb Everest - Gripped Magazine

She would go on to become the first woman to climb the Seven Summits

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

The local rescue group has had a busy week on the Mont Blanc Massif
The post Climber Dies Skiing Peak Above Chamonix appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Climber Dies Skiing Peak Above Chamonix - Gripped Magazine

The local rescue group has had a busy week on the Mont Blanc Massif

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Both of her sends at the grade have been repeats of Adam Ondra first ascents
The post Angelika Rainer Climbs Her Second 5.14c appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Angelika Rainer Climbs Her Second 5.14c - Gripped Magazine

Both of her sends at the grade have been repeats of Adam Ondra first ascents

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

A team of climbers using xenon gas to aid in their ascent is currently on their way up
The post Climber Dies on Everest as Others Summit appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Climber Dies on Everest as Others Summit - Gripped Magazine

A team of climbers using xenon gas to aid in their ascent is currently on their way up

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)