OpenBeta Forums

Will Bosi has just made the first ascent of Chee Dale’s first F9a sport route, Spots of Lime at the Cornice in the Peak District.

Will Bosi adds Spots of Lime - Chee Dale’s first F9a | Climber Magazine

Website Description

(www.climber.co.uk)

In this week's Friday Night video, Didier Berthod returns to complete a soaking wet first ascent of Squamish's longest roof crack boulder, Gold Rush.

Attention Required! | Cloudflare

(www.ukclimbing.com)

And then there’s Lizard Head. I have never climbed such rotten volcanic rock in my life. I didn’t know volcanic rock could be so chossy. The real kicker, which I mulled over as I struggled to not fall off the decomposing top pitch, was that this was first climbed in 1921—a century ago!—one of the…

https://climbingzine.com/lizard-head-choss-photo-essay-steve-crusher-bartlett/

Hauling isn't just for big walls; pulling up your pack on a small diameter cord can be a lot nicer than having it on your back. Here's a great way to set up an ergonomic hauling system that's simple, fast, and lets you lift with your legs, not your arms.
Premium Article available

Foot haul your pack on a multi-pitch — Alpinesavvy

Hauling isn't just for big walls; pulling up your pack on a small diameter cord can be a lot nicer than having it on your back. Here's a great way to set up an ergonomic hauling system that's simple, fast, and lets you lift with your legs, not your arms.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Hauling isn't just for big walls; pulling up your pack on a small diameter cord can be a lot nicer than having it on your back. Here's a great way to set up an ergonomic hauling system that's simple, fast, and lets you lift with your legs, not your arms.
Premium Article available

Off route! | Explore Climbing Skills Today — Alpinesavvy

Discover expert climbing tips, route maps, gear advice, and navigation techniques to enhance your backcountry adventures and mountaineering skills.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

The first ascent was done in 2001 solo at a grade of A5
The post Big Alpine Route in Alps Freed at 5.14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Big Alpine Route in Alps Freed at 5.14 - Gripped Magazine

The first ascent was done in 2001 solo at a grade of A5

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

This is the third rockfall fatality of the season in the Karakoram
The post Rockfall Kills Climber After She Summited K2 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Rockfall Kills Climber After She Summited K2 - Gripped Magazine

This is the third rockfall fatality of the season in the Karakoram

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Renowned French climbers Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have made the first free ascent of the Voie Lafaille on the West Face the Drus.

Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo free Voie Lafaille on Les Dru | Climber Magazine

Website Description

(www.climber.co.uk)

Congratulations, climbers! The Ontario Ministry of Environment, Conservation and Parks (MECP) has heard your voices. Thanks to your letters and advocacy, they are proposing an amendment to the Devil’s Glen...

Ontario Parks Opens Comments on Formally Recognizing Climbing at Devil’s Glen – Ontario Alliance of Climbers

(www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca)

The AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund has a directory of therapists who are specialists in the unique risks, challenges, joys, and euphoria of outdoor recreation, and are informed practitioners who support climbers experiencing grief and trauma. And though the directory is an invaluable resource when people need support in the face of the most intense kinds of grief and tragedy, these counselors also have expertise in other areas, including sports performance psychology. Because it's all connected–just as grief and trauma impacts our relationship to climbing, so too, does working on resilience, self-compassion, and other mental health skills help us excel at our goals in climbing. In this episode, we have therapist and sports psychologist Neal Palles on to chat about how to practice and stack various mental training techniques and concepts on top of each other to build towards peak performance. We periodize our physical training, and according to Palles, we can apply that same concept to mental skills as well. Dive in!

Episode Resources

Learn More About the CGF Directory

Learn More About the Climbing Grief Fund

Learn More About Neal Palles

Periodizing Mental Training with Neal Palles — American Alpine Club

The AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund has a directory of therapists who are specialists in the unique risks, challenges, joys, and euphoria of outdoor recreation, and are informed practitioners who support climbers experiencing grief and trauma. And though the directory is an invaluable resource when people

American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)

Besides being prime time in the high country, summer is a high-traffic season for alpine rock and long moderate climbs. This time of year, climbers of all levels venture unroped onto “easy” terrain. Every year, we also see a handful of free solo accidents. These are almost always fatal and usually take place on well-trafficked moderate routes.

A disturbing pattern emerged last year when several fatalities occurred on adjacent formations in the same area. Recently, the Flatirons above Boulder, Colorado, saw three fatalities, two within two days in mid-December.
On December 16, 2024 the Boulder County Sheriff’s Office received a report that 42-year-old Keith Hayes did not return home that evening. Around 9 p.m., friends of Keith found his body near the top of Second Flatiron after he presumably fell while unroped from Freezeway (5.7). Friends of Hayes report that there was no sign of snow or ice on the route and that there was no sign of broken rock contributing to the fall.
The day after, December 17, a 27-year-old male was reported missing after not returning home in the evening from a Flatirons climb. The Boulder Emergency Squad found the body of the missing male the next day on the Standard East Face route (5.4) on the Third Flatiron; he was presumed to have fallen unroped. Rocky Mountain Rescue Group recovered the body after an eight-plus-hour operation.
“Scrambling” blurs the line between third-class (easy unroped climbing) and fifth-class technical climbing. While the grade of the actual climbing is often anywhere between 5.0 and 5.6, the terrain is climbed unroped and is usually accompanied by consequential fall potential.
A search of the Accidents archive reveals 33 accidents in the Flatirons described and analyzed by the editors (including 11 deaths) since the 1950s. Many of these were the result of unroped climbing.
The editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, Pete Takeda, walks us through why free soloing or scrambling accidents are so prevalent in this area.

Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing; Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney; Editor: Sierra McGivney; Location: Flatirons, Boulder, Colorado.

Freezeway is a steep, alternate finish to gain the summit of the Second Flatiron after completing one of several low-angle east face routes. Keith Hayes was very experienced and had climbed this route without a rope many times before his fall. The Standard East Face of the Third Flatiron is one of the most popular beginner climbs in the U.S. and is frequently climbed unroped.
The accidents shocked the local community, and the timing and proximity of both fatalities gained national attention. These tragedies serve as a reminder of the inherent risks of free solo climbing. Experience and fitness do not guarantee survival, and familiarity can degrade attentiveness. (Source: Friends of Keith Hayes and Bill Kinter.)

The Prescription—Free Solo Fall — American Alpine Club

Besides being prime time in the high country, summer is a high-traffic season for alpine rock and long moderate climbs. This time of year, climbers of all levels venture unroped onto “easy” terrain. Every year, we also see a handful of free solo accidents. These are almost always fatal and usually t

American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)

A new series from Patagonia breaks down the beta for classic routes
The post Here’s How to Climb This 5.13 Trad Route appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Here's How to Climb This 5.13 Trad Route - Gripped Magazine

A new series from Patagonia breaks down the beta for classic routes Tips on how to climb this hard crack route with tips from an accomplished climber

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

This is the first time anyone has recorded a flash of the Dave Graham problem
The post “Felt Effortless,” said Climber of V14 Flash appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

"Felt Effortless," said Climber of V14 Flash - Gripped Magazine

This is the first time anyone has recorded a flash of the Dave Graham problem This is the first time anyone has recorded a flash of the Dave Graham problem

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)