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The top American climber has made the first ascent of Mad Lib 5.14d in Vermont
The post Michaela Kiersch Makes Hardest Female First Ascent in America Ever appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/michaela-kiersch-makes-hardest-female-first-ascent-in-america-ever/
Fall brings frozen choss, ice lines and nearly perfect conditions for climbing on certain alpine routes
The post 10 Tips for Fall Alpine Climbing in the Canadian Rockies appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/profiles/10-tips-for-fall-alpine-climbing-in-the-canadian-rockies/
The French climber sent two burly Ondra routes while visiting Flatanger, Norway
The post Jules Marchaland Ticks an Adam Ondra 5.14d and 5.15a appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
The French climber sent two burly Ondra routes while visiting Flatanger, Norway
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
In this episode of the podcast, we sit down with AAC Librarian Natalie Siciliano to chat about a fascinating part of the American Alpine Club’s history: the days when you used to have to apply to be a member of the Club. The application membership system lasted for over 90 years—which means we have extensive records in our archives that feature the climbing resumes and recommendation letters from thousands of climbing's most fascinating characters. In this episode, we dive into the how and why of this application system, why it got dismantled, and what membership at the Club looks like now. Plus, we take a look at some highlights from the applications of legends like Lynn Hill, Yvon Chouinard, Ichiro Yoshizawa, and more.
Learn More About Becoming an AAC Member!
Explore the AAC Library
In this episode of the podcast, we sit down with AAC Librarian Natalie Siciliano to chat about a fascinating part of the American Alpine Club’s history: the days when you used to have to apply to be a member of the Club. The application membership system lasted for over 90 years—which means we have
American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)
Do single pitch anchors get any better than this? It ticks all the boxes for security, convenience, longevity, ease of use, and more. See all the details, variations, and cost breakdown here.
Premium Article available
Discover expert climbing tips, route maps, gear advice, and navigation techniques to enhance your backcountry adventures and mountaineering skills.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Felipe Camargo recently opened Abaporu 5.15b in Brazil
The post South America Gets Its First 5.15b Rock Climb appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Felipe Camargo recently opened Abaporu 5.15b in Brazil
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
The full list of book finalists for the 50th Banff Mountain Film Festival is below
The post 2025 Banff Mountain Book Award Finalists Annouced – See it Here appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
The full list of book finalists for the 50th Banff Mountain Film Festival is below
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
The Boardman Tasker Award continues to enhance its international reputation. This year, it attracted 28 entries from ten different countries.
This is part 2 of Pat Ament’s essay, published in Volume 17. If you missed part 1, you can read it here. If you enjoyed this story please subscribe, it’s what keeps the zine dream alive! Banner photo of Pratt by Glen Denny. The psychic storm of the 1960s included the beautiful revelations and also…
Part 2 of the essay, Chuck Pratt, Liquid Sunshine by Pat Ament. Published in Volume 17 of The Climbing Zine. Banner photo by Glen Denny.
The Climbing Zine (climbingzine.com)
A new video of the first ascent just dropped, watch it below
The post Jules Marchaland Climbing a New 5.15b in 2025 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
A new video of the first ascent just dropped, watch it below
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
One of the world's best sport climbers returns to bouldering after two months of training
The post Jorge Diaz-Rullo Gets Second Ascent of a Spanish V15 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
One of the world's best sport climbers returns to bouldering after two months of training
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
Fall is finally here and conditions for rock climbing are prime. Many of you will be heading out onto crags or wall that require rappels. Just remember that while rappel mishaps come in all forms, two common errors are getting off the rappel route and/or getting the rappel rope stuck. To extricate oneself and avoid rescue it’s good to learn the art of ascending a rope.
In this incident from 2021, one climber found himself off route. With some basic tools and an understanding of the concept of rope ascension, this climber got his team out of trouble.
On May 25, Climber 1 (David) and Climber 2 experienced a common rappel mishap on Devils Tower. David recounts: I share this as a cautionary tale. After climbing the Bon Homme Variation (5.8) and then the Bailey Direct route to top out, we decided to head down by the Meadows rappels. I saw a cairn and some rap rings and rigged the rap, assuming I was on the Meadows rappe route. Boy was I wrong! After descending about 125 feet (with two 60-meter ropes), I realized I was off route. I saw a tiny ledge with a second rap anchor at 150 feet, but when I got there with no Meadows in sight, I knew I was screwed.
There was a steady 30 mph wind with gusts to about 45. Luckily, we had a set of small radios, so I could talk with my partner. I pulled up an end and tied in and had him start belaying me. Unfortunately, the climbing was well above my grade and the rock was covered with lichen and offered no grip, so I was going nowhere fast.
He started hauling me but didn’t know how to rig something to assist, so I had him tie off his ATC to fix the line. I knew the concepts of selfrescue/ jugging but hadn’t ever practiced. I had to quickly figure it out. I carry a Petzl Micro Traxion as well as a Sterling HollowBlock to use as a prusik. I attached the HollowBlock high and clipped into it with my rappel extension. I put the Micro Traxion low on the rope and rigged a foot stirrup with a cordelette, all while hanging in air 500 feet above the boulder field.
I figured out the method—step up on the Traxion, slide up the prusik, sit back on the prusik, pull slack through the Traxion, repeat over and over. A few times, I got to where I thought I could climb, but it was too complicated to switch from jugging to climbing.
At one point the sling to my prusik got tangled in the Traxion. Somehow I got the Traxion opened (while just hanging on the prusik) and freed the sling. It’s impossible to relay the genuine fear I had during this experience. In the end it all worked out, and in about an hour I was back on top. I learned a lot.
The Meadows rappels are known to lead climbers astray and have been the location of at least one recorded fatality. The descent is unobvious, despite it being used to descend from the most popular routes on Devils Tower. With an almost 90-year rock climbing history, there are many anchors on the Tower–some at five- to ten foot intervals–that make even well-traveled rappels problematic.
As David recounts, “I should have spent more time looking around and been 100 percent sure of the descent route. The top of the Tower is disorienting if you don’t pay attention to the landscape on the ground.” David was smart to carry tools for ascending a fixed rope—a little prior practice would have made his journey back to the anchor a lot easier. Learn and practice safe transitions from rappelling to ascending and the methods to back up such an ascent. Bringing radios was another good choice. David recalls, “It was very windy, and it was impossible to shout. Without the radios I’m pretty sure I would have had to call SAR. Best thirty dollars I ever spent.”
(Sources: David, via Mountain Project, and the Editors.)
Every year, we receive several reports of people getting stuck while rappelling and having to ascend their ropes. Knowing this one technique would save you a lot of stress and prevent what could be a costly and risky rescue.
IFMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin walks us through ascending a double rope after rappelling off route. We recommend that climbers take a rock rescue course from a guide to get a full in-depth training on how to ascend a rope.
Credits:
Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, IFMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin, Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denn...
Fall is finally here and conditions for rock climbing are prime. Many of you will be heading out to crags or walls that require rappels. Just remember that while rappel mishaps come in all forms, two common errors are getting off the rappel route and/or getting the rappel rope stuck. To extricate on
American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)
He battled cold, rainy conditions this summer in Flatanger, Norway
The post Alex Megos Projecting B.I.G. 5.15d appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
He battled cold, rainy conditions this summer in Flatanger, Norway
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
The Boardman Tasker has shortlisted seven books that are eligible to win the 2025 award this fall
The post Famed Climbing Book Award Announces 2025 Shortlist appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
The Boardman Tasker has shortlisted seven books that are eligible to win the 2025 award this fall
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
Welcome to the OpenBeta Forums!
Our goal is to provide a friendly, welcoming, helpful online community of people passionate about climbing. Remember to follow the Community Guidelines, and have fun!
