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JCMcHammy - sound advice you got. I boulder for fun and I feel my level (v4-v6) doesn't warrant fingerboard training (yet), I'm more interested in improving general capacity and skill before advancing to specific fingertraining. I'm much better on slabs and than overhang, so one step at a time

devnull - yeah slopers can be challenging. One tip I got was to close the fingers together, even squeeze the thumb on the index finger, as that give a stronger grip on a sloper. I used to spread my fingers to maximize surface hold on the slopers but that made the hold weaker so I slipped off frequently. But as JCMcHammy says, be precise with your body position and using the back muscles to hold on to a sloper is a better tip, you won't burn out your arms/wrist so much.

youtube.com/watch?v=Dh_l-L2oC1…

Fingerboard Row Pyramids drill description:
Choose a pair of comfortable holds to train
Perform Fingerboard Rows with supported feet in a Pyramid fashion: 10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1
Shake out between row series but don’t dismount the fingerboard
Beginners: start with 10-8-7 and do 1 set/session
Advanced: start going up the Pyramid again: 1-2-3-4… and do up to 5 sets/session with 15-minute rests between sets

Anyone tried this protocol and have made experience about it?
Seem like a good solution to an annoying problem. Getting pumped on crimps is acceptable and expected, it just happen, but all those half-jugs and half-finger grip or pinch holds that seem okay'ish often surprises with how fast they make you feel pumped. I'm gonna try this for a month to see what impact it can have on bouldering/climbing, hopefully it will reduce this aspect that often limit progress.

#climbing #bouldering