Schubert wasted no time on his short trip to the West Coast of Canada, racking up an impressive list of hard ascents
The post Jakob Schubert Sends Room Service Low V14 on a Two-Day Visit to Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Schubert wasted no time on his short trip to the West Coast of Canada, racking up an impressive list of hard ascents
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The first-ever gold medals were awarded at the inaugural Olympic Ski Mountaineering event
The post Historic Firsts in Ski Mountaineering at the 2026 Olympic Winter Games appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
The first-ever gold medals were awarded at the inaugural Olympic Ski Mountaineering event
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
Since 2010, climbers have been exploring the mountains, cliffs, and boulders above the village of Rakchham in northern India’s Baspa Valley, drawn by varied, high-quality climbing and relatively modest elevations in this quiet corner of the Himalaya. Last fall, two Montana-based climbers—Ryan Griffiths and Seth Timpano—spent several weeks in the area. Here’s their story.
In late October and early November 2025, Ryan Griffiths and I climbed new routes on two unclimbed peaks above the Baspa Valley. We were based out of the village of Rakchham at around 3,150 meters, with a small advanced camp on the Rakchham “plateau” at 4,100 meters.
After a week of acclimatizing, we spent October 21 and 22 climbing the northwest face of Peak 5,400m. This gave quality moderate ice and mixed climbing, but was not particularly sustained, as the route was split by a small pocket glacier, which we used for a bivouac. The 800-meter ascent had difficulties up to WI4 M5.
We next tried the east ridge of unclimbed Daboling (ca 6,050m) at the head of the valley. Starting from a high camp at around 5,400 meters, we climbed 13 pitches on mostly good granite, although at times the climbing was tedious and the terrain felt like stacked Jenga blocks. The line was classically alpine in nature, and it is difficult to assign a rock or mixed grade.
Our high point was around 5,850 meters. Four or five more pitches would have taken us to the summit slopes, but without bivouac gear, and knowing the descent would be complex, we made a conservative call to retreat. Our descent involved a dozen rappels (exclusively on rock anchors), first down the ridge then onto the steeper south face.
After a short rest in town, we ended the trip by climbing a 200-meter granite tower that tops out at about 5,100 meters. This is the Fourth Pillar of Ray Peak, as defined by the Austrian team that visited the area in 2019 (AAJ 2020). Ryan and I climbed the south face of this tower in five pitches, four of which were 5.9 or 5.10 and composed of perfect granite. We rappelled our route.
Overall, we found this to be a beautiful area with impressive boulders and excellent alpine rock potential. However, the alpine ice will require very specific—perhaps rare—conditions, as the mountains are losing their perennial snow.
Modern climbing in Rakchaam and the Baspa Valley has a somewhat unlikely origin story for an alpine zone: It began with bouldering. In 2010, well-known European climbers Elie Chevieux, Frederic Nicole, and Bernd Zangerl explored the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh and discovered the Baspa Valley, “a veritable Shangri-La for the rock climbers,” as Chevieux wrote in AAJ 2012. Their stories about the climbing near Rakchham prompted a steady stream of visitors over the next decade. (Spanish climber Silvia Vidal was another early visitor—she soloed a 1,000-meter wall in the area in 2010.)
No one was more infatuated with the area than Zangerl: He has traveled from his home in Austria to Rakchham more than ten times. Zangerl also is one of the driving forces behind community efforts aimed at making climbing a sustainable activity that benefits and is welcomed by local residents. He recently published the first guidebook to bouldering in the area and helped spearhead a bouldering festival this past October, along with the locally led Rakchham Mountaineering & Adventure Club. A community website, rakchham.com, is a great resource for climbers considering a visit, providing beta, information on permits that support the local community, and an offer to help alpinists avoid peaks that the local people consider sacred.
In 2022, Five Ten produced a beautiful 20-minute video, directed by Ray Demski, showcasing Rakchham and the efforts to preserve its beauty and culture while the Baspa Val...
Since 2010, climbers have been exploring the mountains, cliffs, and boulders above the village of Rakchham in northern India’s Baspa Valley, drawn by varied, high-quality climbing and relatively modest elevations in this quiet corner of the Himalaya. Last fall, two Montana-based climbers—Ryan Griffi
American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)
La Pomme d’Adam adds a WI6 M8+ variation pitch to one of Canada's most iconic ice climbs
The post Quebec’s Famous La Pomme d’Or Ice Climb Gets Hard New Variation appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
La Pomme d’Adam adds a WI6 M8+ variation pitch to one of Canada's most iconic ice climbs
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
Nepal is weighing a rule requiring Everest climbers to have first summited a 7,000-meter peak, though no rule has been enacted so far
The post “Mainstream Media Is Misrepresenting New Rules Around Everest,” Says Everest Expert appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Nepal is weighing a rule requiring Everest climbers to have first summited a 7,000-meter peak, though no rule has been enacted so far
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
A number of skiers were rescued after a big avalanche, but many remain missing
The post Several Skiers Missing After Avalanche in California appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
A number of skiers were rescued after a big avalanche, but many remain missing
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
The V17 climber flashed another V14 with his ascent of Bügeleisen in Maltalal, Austria
The post Aidan Roberts Flashes Classic V14 in Austria appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
The V17 climber flashed another V14 with his ascent of Bügeleisen in Maltalal, Austria
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
Ethan Salvo has announced he’s crossed the border and is enroute to bringing the beloved mini-boulder back to Squamish.
The post After missing for months, Portable is back in Canada appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Ethan Salvo has announced he’s crossed the border and is enroute to bringing the beloved mini-boulder back to Squamish.
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
