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Last weekend saw the debut of IFSC World Cup Climbing in South America, with the city of Curitiba in south Brazil playing host to the second boulder World Cup of the season.

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The Dark Side and Last Line of Defense are currently the hardest two boulders in Yosemite
The post Yosemite Valley Now Has Two V16 Boulders appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Yosemite Valley Now Has Two V16 Boulders - Gripped Magazine

The Dark Side and Last Line of Defense are currently the hardest two boulders in Yosemite

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Here's how and when you can watch the boulder comps live on Saturday and Sunday
The post Don’t Miss the World Cup in Salt Lake City This Weekend appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Don't Miss the World Cup in Salt Lake City This Weekend - Gripped Magazine

Here's how and when you can watch the boulder comps live on Saturday and Sunday

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

She adds Oslo's hardest problem to her growing tick-list of boulders V14 and harder
The post Jana Švecová Climbing a V14 in Oslo appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Jana Švecová Climbing a V14 in Oslo - Gripped Magazine

She adds Oslo's hardest problem to her growing tick-list of boulders V14 and harder

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

We stared out at the treacherous somber surfaces, weathered by wind and storm. The mountains transformed in our minds, revealing an expanse impossible to comprehend. It is upon this sea of summits we desired to stand.
I was born in flatland central Wisconsin, and often biked with my childhood friend Devin Grdinic up the 1.56-billion-year-old, 1,924-foot prominent hill, Rib Mountain, located in our hometown. From the gouged rim of the hundred-foot quartzite quarry, we grew an affinity for mountains, dreaming of summits.
In our early 20s, ambitious and hell-bent, we drove from Minneapolis to Mt. Elbert in a day. Devin did the planning, and I went along. Knowing the importance of acclimatizing but lacking the time, we spent a night in the Never Summer Mountains. With a pound of venison strapped to my chest to prevent the blood from leaking in my bag, we set forth to high camp and shivered through the cold night. In the morning my appreciation of the mountains solidified as I opened the tent to the majestic view.
Over a cup of coffee at a wayside diner a few years later, Devin proposed another scheme—to tag Mt. Whitney, the tallest in the lower 48. Without hesitation, I said yes.
We descended into the smog of LAX and drove north to the Sierra Nevada. Finding residence in Mammoth Lakes, we improved our acclimatization period by visiting the ancient bristlecones of the White Mountains of California.
Parking late in the afternoon on October 7, 2008, we hit the Mt. Whitney Trail with heavy packs. Unbeknownst to us, our map remained in the back seat. We missed the creek crossing at Lower Boy Scout Lake and went off-trail, bushwhacking into the night. Panicked, we trudged over bush and boulders, reaching an icy ledge where my foot slipped and I hung by loosely fitted gloves. Devin instinctively reached with his hiking pole and hoisted me back up. Clearly, my intrepid aspirations were on a slippery slope.
Miraculously finding Upper Boy Scout camp in the dark, we shivered through the night with inadequate sleeping pads as winds battered our tent. In the warmth of the morning, we set off to climb the wrong mountain. Returning to camp, we planned one final attempt before we’d miss our flights. With little sleep, we set off before dawn, reaching Iceberg Lake as Whitney’s east face prominently glowed orange. At the base of the snow-filled Mountaineer’s Route gully, we realized we were a bit over our heads. With blistered feet and tired shoulders, we descended.
Over the next seven years, Devin and I summited Mt. Temple, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Rainier together. In the years between doing Shasta and Baker, I was introduced to technical rock climbing by my close friend Ross Nueske, a serious square-jawed man who wore a mischievous plotting grin. Ross and I enjoyed climbing multi-pitch trad routes, but after a decade of rock climbing, something still felt unfinished. The memory of Whitney taunted me to return.
I purchased an entry permit for the summer of 2020.
While climbing at the North Shore of Minnesota that June, I received a message from Devin. He had been diagnosed with life-threatening leukemia. Complete devastation washed over everyone close to him. I recall sitting by Lake Superior, staring into the empty blue horizon, trying to process the news as waves lapped sorrowfully over the pebbled shore. Dreams of the future in jeopardy, one small dream being Whitney, the gravely worse one—losing my best friend. Life lingered in a fragile balance as we stayed in contact over Devin’s year-long struggle. Through multiple series of treatments that brought him to the brink of death, he ultimately survived, thanks to a miraculous bone-marrow transplant.
In 2023, I purchased another North Fork of Lone Pine entry pass. The new plan was for Ross and me to climb the East Buttress (1,000', 11 pitches, 5.7) on Mt.Whitney. Devin invited his older brother Marcel Grdinic, a chemistry teacher from Chicago, to join him in attempting the third-class Mountaineer's Route. Two months before the trip, I ruptured my right distal biceps tendon while bouldering. Orthopedic surgery was needed, followed by six months of nonuse: no climbing, no lifting, and the struggle to use my left hand for everything.
The trip still went on, albeit with a hiking-only itinerary. Clouds Rest, a famed trail in Yosemite National Park, gave everyone a magnificent view of the Valley.

Guidebook XIV—Grant Spotlight — American Alpine Club

Ascending the Path A Story from the Live Your Dream Grant By Charles Denton Photos by Charles Denton on land of the Yokuts people We stared out at the treacherous somber surfaces, weathered by wind and storm. The mountains transformed in our minds, revealing an expanse impossible to comprehen

American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)

Since returning to the UK from Switzerland, Will Bosi has climbed his long-standing Raven Tor project, adding Realm of Tor’ment, a fifth Font 9A to his resume.

Will Bosi makes first ascent of Realm of Tor’ment (Font 9A) | Climber Magazine

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In proposing a grade of 9A, Will becomes the first person to have climbed five boulders at the grade.

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