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The Spanish climber also recently flashed 5.14a and 5.14b
The post Jorge Díaz-Rullo Climbs 5.14d and V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Jorge Díaz-Rullo Climbs 5.14d and V14 - Gripped Magazine

The Spanish climber also recently flashed 5.14a and 5.14b

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

A new CBC podcast focuses on American Davis Wolfgang Hawke, whose 2017 Squamish death has been ruled a homicide
The post True Crime in Squamish: New Podcast About the Death of Jesse James appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

True Crime in Squamish: New Podcast About the Death of Jesse James - Gripped Magazine

A new CBC podcast focuses on American Davis Wolfgang Hawke, whose 2017 Squamish death has been ruled a homicide

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Jernej Kruder details his recent trip to Squamish and repeat of The Shark, a 5.14 established by Connor Herson
The post Jernej Kruder on His Send of The Shark 5.14 in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Jernej Kruder on His Send of The Shark 5.14 in Squamish - Gripped Magazine

Jernej Kruder details his recent trip to Squamish and repeat of The Shark, a 5.14 established by Connor Herson

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Nima Chhiring Sherpa, a grade 11 student, is one of dozens of climbers to summit Manaslu over the past few weeks
The post 16-Year-Old is Youngest to Climb World’s Eighth Highest Mountain appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

16-Year-Old is Youngest to Climb World's Eighth Highest Mountain - Gripped Magazine

Nima Chhiring Sherpa, a grade 11 student, is one of dozens of climbers to summit Manaslu over the past few weeks

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Delaney Miller repeated the test-piece Rifle route last last year, but the finished video of her send just dropped
The post Delaney Miller Climbing Fat Camp, a 5.14d in Colorado appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Delaney Miller Climbing Fat Camp, a 5.14d in Colorado - Gripped Magazine

Delaney Miller repeated the test-piece Rifle route last last year, but the finished video of her send just dropped

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Phillar of Experience climbs 24 pitches of cracks and ridge sections up a striking peak
The post New 1,900-Metre Rock Climb on Kyrgyzstan Alpine Pillar appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

https://gripped.com/uncategorized/new-1900-metre-rock-climb-on-kyrgyzstan-alpine-pillar/

In another close competition, Team Japan's Anraku overtook Mejdi Schalck of France to won gold
The post Sorato Anraku Wins His First Climbing World Championship Gold appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Sorato Anraku Wins His First Climbing World Championship Gold - Gripped Magazine

In another close competition, Team Japan's Anraku overtook Mejdi Schalck of France to won gold

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Garnbret won her 10th World Championship gold medal today at a nail-biting Boulder final in Seoul, South Korea
The post Janja Garnbret Comes Out on Top in Most Exciting Climbing Comp of the Year appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Janja Garnbret Comes Out on Top in Most Exciting Climbing Comp of the Year - Gripped Magazine

Garnbret won her 10th World Championship gold medal today at a nail-biting Boulder final in Seoul, South Korea

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

The local access group is inviting all climbers to join them on a day of crag cleaning and socializing
The post Crag Cleanup Day at Canmore’s Echo Canyon appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Crag Cleanup Day at Canmore's Echo Canyon - Gripped Magazine

The local access group is inviting all climbers to join them on a day of crag cleaning and socializing

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

Sonnie Trotter will be stopping by in Portland, Salt Lake City and other cities in the west - dates below
The post Sonnie Trotter is Going on a U.S.A. Book Tour – Here’s Where appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Sonnie Trotter Is Going on a U.S.A. Book Tour - Here's Where - Gripped Magazine

Sonnie Trotter will be stopping by in Portland, Salt Lake City and other cities in the west - dates below

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

We touched base with Ian Welsted to hear about his time spent on the biggest mountain in the Canadian Rockies
The post Ian Welsted Just Guided Mount Robson Three Times – Here’s How it Went appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

Ian Welsted Just Guided Mount Robson Three Times - Here's How It Went - Gripped Magazine

We touched base with Ian Welsted to hear about his time spent on the biggest mountain in the Canadian Rockies

Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)

First ascents are as much about imagination as they are about strength and skill: They require seeing a possibility where few had imagined one before. River guide and climber Matt Ward had seen the Redside Wall above Idaho’s Salmon River many times, and he dreamed of making the first ascent. The wall looked climbable, but how to get there? The wild story of how he and Ky Hart solved that problem is published below. Matt’s story appears in AAJ 2025, which is now starting to arrive in AAC members’ mailboxes. But not everyone reads the AAJ cover to cover, and we didn’t want anyone to miss this unique tale of adventure.

“Beavers!” Ky Hart yelled over his shoulder.

“No! Bears!” I yelled back.

Actually, it was three bears. Two small black bear cubs were timidly swimming on an eddy line in the Middle Fork of the Salmon River. The large mama bear was waiting for her cubs to follow her across, and she stood up tall when she saw Ky and me about to swim between her and her babies.
“I’m gonna touch one!” Ky yelled out.
My instinct was to do the exact opposite—swim away from them. But the swift current was quickly moving us both directly at the cubs. Fortunately, our appearance shocked them into action. The cubs swam hard for mama, and the current shot us past them.
Looking back on the experience later that day, it occurred to me that the fact that Ky’s first thought was to swim over and touch a wild bear cub while its mother watched was one of many things that made him the perfect partner for this trip. Unhinged, yes. But our plan to hike 22 miles, swim three and a half miles of whitewater, and climb a new route on a backcountry big wall would require more than a little madness.
Impassable Canyon on the Middle Fork of the Salmon, deep in the heart of Idaho’s massive Frank Church Wilderness, is legendary among river runners and all but unknown to climbers. River permits for the Middle Fork can only be won through a lucky pick in the annual lottery. Once a trip has launched, numerous necessary rules regulate the way that boaters can use the wilderness. One of these prohibits any river trip from camping more than one night in Impassable Canyon.
Over three commercial seasons as a raft guide on the Middle Fork, I had become obsessed with what appeared to be the tallest wall in Impassable Canyon. It’s a landmark for the famous Redside Rapid, and because of this, I’ve always called it the Redside Wall.
The Redside Wall is 82 river miles from the Boundary Creek boat ramp. The nearest trail to the wall crosses the river 3.5 miles upstream, but only after a 22-mile hike down Waterfall Creek. Over years of dreaming about trying to climb Redside, that seemed like the best option—except that those 3.5 downstream miles aren’t walkable at water level; the river often runs against steep impassable walls. Hitchhiking downstream on river trips would also be illegal, since we wouldn’t be listed on the boat’s permit.
During one of many conversations with river and forest administrators on how to access the area legally, I finally asked the right question. “I don’t need a permit to swim in the river, do I?” The answer was no, I didn’t, delivered with a sideways glance and a chuckle.
At that moment, I hatched a plan. Ky and I would hike the Waterfall Creek Trail into Middle Fork Canyon, descending over 5,500’ in 22 miles. Then we would swim with our backpacks down 3.5 miles of whitewater, including numerous Class III rapids. Then we would spend three days making the first ascent of a dramatically overhanging wall. Then we would join a friend’s river trip (for which we were listed on the permit) and paddle out.
On August 29, 2024, we began the hike. After eight hours on the move, we reached the Middle Fork and made camp near the confluence with Big Creek, where a charred hillside across the river was still smoking from a wildfire. We were awoken repeatedly that night by the sound of trees falling and rockfall.
The next morning, we walked until Cutthroat Cove Rapid, where the bank cliffed out. It was time to swim. We eased into the river wearing our PFDs, gasped at the chill of the water, and began the most ridiculous stage of the plan. The bear sighting happened within the first mile. Soon after, our lips were blue, our teeth chattering. Ky found driftwood logs and lashed them to his backpack, which kept him...

The Line: A Wild and Crazy First Ascent in Idaho — American Alpine Club

First ascents are as much about imagination as they are about strength and skill: They require seeing a possibility where few had imagined one before. River guide and climber Matt Ward had seen a huge, steep wall above Idaho’s Salmon River many times, and he dreamed of making the first ascent. The w

American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)