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Tyler Thompson has completed his second 5.15a with another first repeat
The post Kai Lightner’s 5.15a Gets a Second Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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This month she's ticked one 5.14d, three 5.14c's, one 5.14b, and five 5.14a's
The post Sendy February for Eva Hammelmüller appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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See the list of 100 iconic mountains in New Zealand below, of which Nathan Longhurst has climbed in less than a year
The post U.S. Climber Does 100 New Zealand Mountains in a Year appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig so you can do it under potential stress. Learn the principles here.
Premium Article available

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In this episode, we’re sitting down with AAC member David Corvi to talk about his Live Your Dream grant experience—a beautiful day that turned into a 24 hour epic on Mt. Whitney in September of 2024. Getting off route, climbing through pockets of ice and show, and getting lost on the descent were only some of what the team experienced that day.
Because there is another layer of complexity to this story, a mental load that added a unique weight to that experience. David’s trip to Whitney was also in memory of his stillborn son, Charlie. In the episode, David shares about his family’s experience with infant and child loss, how climbing and other forms of outdoor adventures have helped him process his grief and continue to parent Charlie even though he is gone, and likewise he reflects on how physical challenges, like half marathons and the Whitney trip, are a way to honor the life Charlie won’t ever get to experience. Dive into this episode to hear about your classic alpine day gone wrong, and just one way that grief and loss can be processed in the mountains.

Apply to the Live Your Dream Grant (Opening March 1st, 2025)

Charles Martin Corvi Fund Website

How to Buy the Book: “Dear Charlie...Letters to My Son: A Father's Journey of Loss, Grief, and Remembrance”

Deep Survival by Laurence Gonzalez
Healthy Birthday (Stillbirth Prevention Advocates)

Star Legacy Foundation

Now I Lay Me Down to Sleep

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Gravity really made its presence felt today, and my ego definitely felt the impact

#climbing #bouldering #moonboard

Only one incident has been reported with no injuries, but if you bought a Vision harness back to 2018 you can get a full refund
The post Harness Recall: “Immediately Stop Using It” appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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The west face of Sloan Peak, about 20 kilometers southwest of Glacier Peak in Washington’s North Cascades, has seen a flurry of winter climbing in the past five years. But one obvious plum remained: a direct route up the center of the face, with an intimidating crux pitch leading past steep rock to a hanging dagger. In January, Northwest climbers Justin Sackett and Michael Telstad picked that plum, climbing nearly 2,000 feet up the west face in a long day. We’re sharing Telstad’s report for AAJ 2025 here.

The west face of Sloan Peak (7,835’) has been at the forefront of my mind for about as long as I’ve been winter climbing. Despite numerous attempts, the main face was unclimbed to the summit in winter until 2022, with the completion of Superalpine (IV WI3/4, Legallo-Roy). In 2023, the Merrill-Minton (a.k.a. The Sloan Slither, 1,600’, IV WI4+) climbed partway up the center of the face, then moved rightward to join Superalpine. A previous winter line on Sloan Peak, Full Moon Fever (IV AI4 R 5.8, Downey-Hinkley-Hogan, 2011), started on the west face then angled up the northern shoulder.
Directly above the point where the Merrill-Minton cuts right to easier ground, a large hanging dagger is guarded by gently overhanging, compact gneiss. Known as one of the biggest unpicked plums in the North Cascades, the direct line past the dagger was going to get climbed sooner or later—it was just a question of by whom and in what style. When a perfect weather window arrived in the forecast, I convinced Justin Sackett to drive up from Portland for an attempt.
Early on January 19, 2025, we stepped away from the car and into the rainforest. We reached the base of the route at first light. Following the Merrill-Minton for the first three pitches, we encountered climbing up to WI5 R—a far cry from the moderate ice reported on the first ascent. Below the dagger, we took a short break and got ready for an adventure. I’d chosen to leave the bolt kit behind. This route deserved an honest attempt on natural gear before being sieged.
After traversing back and forth a few times, I chose my line to the ice and started up. The rock on this portion of the wall is highly featured but compact and fractured. Just about every seam that might take gear was packed full of frozen moss; finding decent protection was a slow, agonizing process. A steep crux near the end of the pitch held potential for a huge fall, but an improbable no-hands rest allowed me just enough of a reprieve to get good gear.
Justin joined me in the sun above the dagger, and we continued up a pitch of perfect blue water ice to snow slopes. Rather than finish via the standard scramble route, we opted for an obvious corner system above us. Reminiscent of Shaken Not Stirred on the Mooses Tooth in Alaska, this narrow slot held steps of water ice broken by sections of steep snow—the ideal finish to an excellent climb.
Arriving on the windless summit around 3:45 p.m., we took a short break and began our descent along the southeast shelf. After what felt like an eternity of steep downclimbing, we post-holed back to the cars, arriving a bit after 8 pm. Our direct new route is called Borrowed Time (1,900’, IV WI5 M7).

In a sad footnote to the Sloan Peak story, a climber was severely injured in a long fall on the mountain about a week after the ascent reported above, apparently attempting one of the initial pitches on either this line or the Merrill-Minton route. The climber was pulled from the face in a dramatic helicopter mission—the five-minute video from Snohomish County Sheriff’s Office is a remarkable window into such rescues. We wish the climber well in his recovery.

Crashhhhh! rang through the perfectly still night. To say this woke up August Franzen, Cody Winckler, and me would be a lie. How could we sleep? We were camped below the biggest objective of our lives, on our first trip to Pakistan, alone in the Yashkuk Yaz Valley aside from our two cooks and liaison officer back at base camp, surrounded by the most beautiful, terrifying, inspiring, and chaotic mountains we’d ever seen. Now, on the glacier beneath Yashkuk Sar I (6,667m), about a mile past our advanced base camp, I poked my head out the tent door to see a gargantuan avalanche roaring down the peak’s north wall, its powder cloud billowing toward us.

“Should we run?” asked August.

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Caroline Ciavaldini trying a corner route.
Most of the time corner routes have tiny foodholds and your feet are constantly positioned in the same angle which can give you terrible aching legs/feet
So, it's a huge relief when you finally reach the anchor.

#climbing #rockclimbing #girlswhoclimb

Howdy fellow climbers, little money saving tip: resole your climbing shoes. Costs about 50 euros instead of a new pair.

#climbing #bouldering

This is the message from the current CEO of Patagonia. Places noted as being threatened include Bears Ears National Monument, the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and the watershed of Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness
The post Trump Gov Should Not Sell U.S. Public Lands appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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There have been several major alpine ascents completed in Europe this winter, but this might be the most incredible
The post Epic Alpine Big Wall Climb Over Seven Days appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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The challenging gear route was first climbed nearly 20 years ago. The first ascensionist just dropped the original FA video on YouTube
The post Sonnie Trotter Climbing The Path 5.14R appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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It took me a bit to figure out a sequence through the start of this problem, but it was fun to spend some time on.

#climbing

Mirrored 5.14c/d is the newest hard route in one of North America's steepest sport crags
The post Jonathan Siegrist Opens New 5.14+ appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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Less than a year after climbing her first 5.14, Veronica Chik has ticked her first V10
The post Nine-Year-Old Climbs V10 Traverse in China appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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